Full Circle

So, I promised one last blog about Russia when I returned home and I’ve finally gotten to it. It is exactly one year to the day when I boarded a plane for my second year in Pyatigorsk. It took me awhile to get settled, so writing was put on hold. I found myself a good job with nice hours and pay. I’ve done my best to straighten out my life as much as possible, upon returning State side. Living in another country for a year and then picking up life where you left it is a difficult thing. Having done this a second time, the adjustments were easier. I also wanted to give myself ample opportunity to reflect and think about my second year in Pyatigorsk. To, reassess the sights I’ve seen, the experiences I’ve collected, and the moments I’ve shared with wonderful people from all over the world.

It is most a year since I travelled again to the lands of the North Caucasus, a region of the world that has so much rich history and culture. It is a shame that so many of my fellow countrymen haven’t even heard the Caucasus (at least in its geography context) and if they have, images of Chechnya come to mind. Though thinking of Chechnya isn’t a bad thing, there is a whole lot more to this region then what the media will tell. Americans are not the only ignorant party, most Russians north of the Caucasus (especially in Saint Petersburg and Moscow) hear the word “kavkaz” and like of terrorism, (synonymous in their eyes with Chechnya) and ethnic conflict. There is true to this, many wars including the two Chechen Wars, the Abkhaz War and the Russo-Georgian War have been fought in the last two decades, but to blanket an entire region doesn’t speak well of the human condition, one that is also wanted to explore and be curious of new surrounds. We are at our best when our eyes or open and are wiling to explore the frontier of our imaginations.

The Caucasus, inspired my imagination. At least it was one of the curious kind, the feeling you get when to hear of see a topic that is interesting, but know little about it. So, I read and read to get a better grasp about what was getting into and decided to go and live there for a year in 2013. Putting physical context to something you’ve read a lot is a breath taking experience, one that every history must do to order to truly understand the subject that they are writing about. The experience of interacting with the world, from beyond the dry, pages of a book, put is things into context and highlights things emotion and sense that otherwise couldn’t be simulated. Smelling freshly baked lavash, or the seared meat on a shampur of shashlik. Hearing the rhythm of drums and the melody of the accordion while dancing lezginka. Climbing to the summit of a local mountain peak. Feeling the warmth of vodka down your throat after making a sentimental toast to family and friends. All this sensations are things that I could have never felt without traveling and living in Pyatigorsk.

The first time I word the word “Circassain,” was then I was maybe 8 or 9 and watched the film “Lawrence of Arabia,” started Peter O’tool. The seen was then the Turks have taken Lawrence prisoner, the commander commenting on Lawrence’s fair skin and blue eyes. “You have blue eyes. Are you Circassian?” I have come a long why in understanding the Circassians since I was a boy and has been an honor and a privilege to have been given the opportunity to not only research this ethnic group for my undergrad, but also be so warmly accepted into their culture. I got to experience a way of life and traditions that few people get to see as an outsider. I’ve been the guest of honor at a table, filled with delicious food and equally wonderful people. I’ve gotten to march in a rally commemorating the deaths of thousands of Circassians during their exodus to the Ottoman Empire. I’ve dance Kabardinskia Kafa at a festival for they culture and flag. It was a wonderful experience, memories and feelings that will stay with me until my death. It changed me and forever I will be remembered at PSLU was “Americanski Cherkess,” “The American-Circassian.”

I with forever miss the sense of tradition and duty that the Circassians value. Not to say the in America we don’t have our own traditions, but there is less social cohesion amongst my people as many of us have become so removed from our ancestral roots and haven’t had a need to preserve our traditions in the same sense as the Circassians (as well as other Caucasian ethnic groups) have had to. I will miss the exotic spices in the market, the mountains of cumin, cardamon, paprika, and turmeric that release heavenly aromas. One can find these things in the States, but the rynok is unique in the old world, the American farmer’s market doesn’t come close. I miss the availably of lavash, baklava, kvas, rye bread as dark of the soil on the Volga, and the various Russian chocolates sold in the market. The favors of drill weed and sour cream are not as prevalent in American cooking (I’m thinking of brewing my own kvas at home though). I’ll never find Circassian cheese here, let alone Georgian and Armenian cheeses and wines (though Pheasent’s Tears has an American distributor in New York, wine maybe possible). Georgian khachapuri, one of my favorite things will have to take a step aside (though I’m sure with some good American ingenuity I can recreate it, though be it with different cheeses). The Armenian coffee is one of the things I will miss the most. I bought three packs of the wonderful stuff so hopefully that will last awhile before my next trip.

On the flip side I missed the American freedom and liberty that I was raised with, the rights that my people have. I missed the summer and fall get togethers, the seasonal foods and the BBQ parties. The sent of a smoked pig, or the crunch of kettle cooked potato chips. Even the heat, I missed. The humidity and the sun, beating on you during the “dog days of summer,” making you want to ranch into the cooler and grab a cool one. Oh, having my own car to get around in. It is so nice to go when I choose as opposed to waiting for the marshotka and American drivers are so much safer then Russians or Georgians. People don’t make third lines of traffic not of two for a start. The bar culture is different here in America when in Russian or Europe for that matter, but as I’ve learn over my various travels, things are not necessarily better or worst, they are just different. I loved the ability to walk everywhere in Pyatigorsk. In my town of Bellevue and on a larger scale, Omaha, one has to drive to get anywhere. This a hamper on beer drinking, as it is difficult to have a session when you have to drive back home.

As I’ve worked of the summer I’ve had a lot of opportunity to think about the my time sent in Russia and I have a lot of “roses” to share. Firstly, I’m so thankfully to my teachers at PSLU for their time and patience. You all welcomed my back like one of your own and I felt so involved and a part of something, in some ways more so then at my college in America. Regrettably, this is true. I felt like a fish out of water when I returned from Pyatigorsk the first time and the welcome from my peers at college was a dull one. One the other hand, when returning to Pyatigorsk, people were so happy to see me and it was if I hadn’t had left. There’s something to be said concerning Russian and Caucasian sentimentalism. I miss the long toasts to family and friends, words that were from the heart. Here in the States we don’t spend time on toasts, the art of toasting has been lost (though I never want to have a bottle of vodka again). I miss compatroitism amongst the facilities, the plays, the dance performances, and lectures that PSLU hosted. It was a great way to learn about everyone, out of the class room and t was so great to have been apart of some of these events.

Secondly, I think on of the best adventures was having the opportunity to visit the cities of Astrakhan and Volgograd with my buddy Diogo. It was so good to see two new cities and represent the university as foreigners. Teaching thirty plus Russian children English for two weeks was a fun and challenging experience, one that most drove the both of us dog tired and crazy at the end of the day, but we celebrated and self medicated with pint after pint of beer. Seeing the sights on out days off and hanging out was also a great way to learn about the cities and about each to other, sharing life experiences and points of view. Our trip to Volgograd was similar and it was so cool to achieve the Best Delegate Award for a second time here at Volgograd State University. I wish my peers and professors at Hastings could had been there to share that experience with me. Seeing the war memorials at Volgograd was one of my bucket list activities and the feeling one gets when touching history and seeing it in person is almost indescribable. Things I had read and heard about had come to life before me.

Thirdly, getting my cherkesska in January, while on a trip to Nalchik. It was a spur of the moment decision after several months of comparing prices and quality at different stores. I look on my face was captured perfectly my Anna, as I was purchasing it. A smile from ear to ear. The acquisition of all parts the Circassians national regalia took the whole year to complete, but it was well worth the wait. Some of my most fond memories are marching in Nalchik with the Circassian flag in my hands, dressing the part. Dancing the Kabardinskaya Kafa at the ceremonies on Flag Day was also a surreal moment. I huge thanks to Anna for her support and for being my dance partner on Wednesday and Friday nights. I also have to thank you for your friendship and for our sharing love for all things Circassian. Meeting you was a fateful moment. I would have never guess to meet a Russian who loved Circassian culture so much and to a greater level then I. We’re kindred spirits you and I. And of course I must give credit to my brother, Elberd, for without you, my inspiration into the Caucasus may never have blossomed. Adige Wei Wei.

Fourthly, I gotta say something about those long, wonderful evenings in the various pubs. I was so blessed share drinks with such a interesting and amazing group of individuals. Your company was and is most appreciated and I miss having you around. Diogo, my wingman and beer buddy, it was so good to meet a guy who had I great love for beer. I special shout out to Alizee and Florane for introducing me to Belgian beer. I had know idea of all the wonderful flora aromas and tastes of spice that I was missing out on. If it wasn’t for you (along with Pierre and Christophe) I wouldn’t never gotten into drinking them. I can say now that they are some of the best beers I’ve had. I love our conversations and it was wonderful to have a diverse set of opinions and points of view. I most confess that having so many French speakers was at first daunting, but that was part of the charm and I can say it rubbed onto me. Merci beaucoup à vous tous.

Our Georgia trip was one of the best holidays I’ve had in a very long time. We got to do so much and eat all the tasty food. I love that I can say I’ve had a beer in one hand and a glass of wine in the other. The tall peaks and rolling hills of Georgia captive the mind and if the geography doesn’t phrase you, then the infectious smiles and warm hospitality of the Georgian people will make you melt. My Tbilisi Church tour was a success and in a way a kind of pilgrimage for me. A goal that I had been wanting to accomplish since the winter of 2014 when I first stepping into the streets of this beauty city.

So, all in all, an amazing year. Warm hugs and many thanks to Alina and Vika for your friendship and love. If it wasn’t for you both, Pyatigorsk would have been without heart and character. I miss you both terribly.

Thank you: Alina, Vika, Maddy, Molly, Diogo, Jeanne, Emma, Hesham, Ali, Anastasia, Diana, Yana, Tanya, Angelina, Max, Igor, Viktoryia Christophe, Nuri, Anna, Jan, Elberd, Sara, Alizee, Florane, the Slate family, and Patricia from making the year a great one and for sharing it with me.

Special thanks to Taylor for her love, support, and willingness to put up with another year of being apart. I love you.

Спасибо и наилучшими пожеланиями, ваш друг, всегда, Иeн.