Full Circle

On August 31, 2016 By de TuttlevilleLeave a comment

So, I promised one last blog about Russia when I returned home and I’ve finally gotten to it. It is exactly one year to the day when I boarded a plane for my second year in Pyatigorsk. It took me awhile to get settled, so writing was put on hold. I found myself a good job with nice hours and pay. I’ve done my best to straighten out my life as much as possible, upon returning State side. Living in another country for a year and then picking up life where you left it is a difficult thing. Having done this a second time, the adjustments were easier. I also wanted to give myself ample opportunity to reflect and think about my second year in Pyatigorsk. To, reassess the sights I’ve seen, the experiences I’ve collected, and the moments I’ve shared with wonderful people from all over the world.

It is most a year since I travelled again to the lands of the North Caucasus, a region of the world that has so much rich history and culture. It is a shame that so many of my fellow countrymen haven’t even heard the Caucasus (at least in its geography context) and if they have, images of Chechnya come to mind. Though thinking of Chechnya isn’t a bad thing, there is a whole lot more to this region then what the media will tell. Americans are not the only ignorant party, most Russians north of the Caucasus (especially in Saint Petersburg and Moscow) hear the word “kavkaz” and like of terrorism, (synonymous in their eyes with Chechnya) and ethnic conflict. There is true to this, many wars including the two Chechen Wars, the Abkhaz War and the Russo-Georgian War have been fought in the last two decades, but to blanket an entire region doesn’t speak well of the human condition, one that is also wanted to explore and be curious of new surrounds. We are at our best when our eyes or open and are wiling to explore the frontier of our imaginations.

The Caucasus, inspired my imagination. At least it was one of the curious kind, the feeling you get when to hear of see a topic that is interesting, but know little about it. So, I read and read to get a better grasp about what was getting into and decided to go and live there for a year in 2013. Putting physical context to something you’ve read a lot is a breath taking experience, one that every history must do to order to truly understand the subject that they are writing about. The experience of interacting with the world, from beyond the dry, pages of a book, put is things into context and highlights things emotion and sense that otherwise couldn’t be simulated. Smelling freshly baked lavash, or the seared meat on a shampur of shashlik. Hearing the rhythm of drums and the melody of the accordion while dancing lezginka. Climbing to the summit of a local mountain peak. Feeling the warmth of vodka down your throat after making a sentimental toast to family and friends. All this sensations are things that I could have never felt without traveling and living in Pyatigorsk.

The first time I word the word “Circassain,” was then I was maybe 8 or 9 and watched the film “Lawrence of Arabia,” started Peter O’tool. The seen was then the Turks have taken Lawrence prisoner, the commander commenting on Lawrence’s fair skin and blue eyes. “You have blue eyes. Are you Circassian?” I have come a long why in understanding the Circassians since I was a boy and has been an honor and a privilege to have been given the opportunity to not only research this ethnic group for my undergrad, but also be so warmly accepted into their culture. I got to experience a way of life and traditions that few people get to see as an outsider. I’ve been the guest of honor at a table, filled with delicious food and equally wonderful people. I’ve gotten to march in a rally commemorating the deaths of thousands of Circassians during their exodus to the Ottoman Empire. I’ve dance Kabardinskia Kafa at a festival for they culture and flag. It was a wonderful experience, memories and feelings that will stay with me until my death. It changed me and forever I will be remembered at PSLU was “Americanski Cherkess,” “The American-Circassian.”

I with forever miss the sense of tradition and duty that the Circassians value. Not to say the in America we don’t have our own traditions, but there is less social cohesion amongst my people as many of us have become so removed from our ancestral roots and haven’t had a need to preserve our traditions in the same sense as the Circassians (as well as other Caucasian ethnic groups) have had to. I will miss the exotic spices in the market, the mountains of cumin, cardamon, paprika, and turmeric that release heavenly aromas. One can find these things in the States, but the rynok is unique in the old world, the American farmer’s market doesn’t come close. I miss the availably of lavash, baklava, kvas, rye bread as dark of the soil on the Volga, and the various Russian chocolates sold in the market. The favors of drill weed and sour cream are not as prevalent in American cooking (I’m thinking of brewing my own kvas at home though). I’ll never find Circassian cheese here, let alone Georgian and Armenian cheeses and wines (though Pheasent’s Tears has an American distributor in New York, wine maybe possible). Georgian khachapuri, one of my favorite things will have to take a step aside (though I’m sure with some good American ingenuity I can recreate it, though be it with different cheeses). The Armenian coffee is one of the things I will miss the most. I bought three packs of the wonderful stuff so hopefully that will last awhile before my next trip.

On the flip side I missed the American freedom and liberty that I was raised with, the rights that my people have. I missed the summer and fall get togethers, the seasonal foods and the BBQ parties. The sent of a smoked pig, or the crunch of kettle cooked potato chips. Even the heat, I missed. The humidity and the sun, beating on you during the “dog days of summer,” making you want to ranch into the cooler and grab a cool one. Oh, having my own car to get around in. It is so nice to go when I choose as opposed to waiting for the marshotka and American drivers are so much safer then Russians or Georgians. People don’t make third lines of traffic not of two for a start. The bar culture is different here in America when in Russian or Europe for that matter, but as I’ve learn over my various travels, things are not necessarily better or worst, they are just different. I loved the ability to walk everywhere in Pyatigorsk. In my town of Bellevue and on a larger scale, Omaha, one has to drive to get anywhere. This a hamper on beer drinking, as it is difficult to have a session when you have to drive back home.

As I’ve worked of the summer I’ve had a lot of opportunity to think about the my time sent in Russia and I have a lot of “roses” to share. Firstly, I’m so thankfully to my teachers at PSLU for their time and patience. You all welcomed my back like one of your own and I felt so involved and a part of something, in some ways more so then at my college in America. Regrettably, this is true. I felt like a fish out of water when I returned from Pyatigorsk the first time and the welcome from my peers at college was a dull one. One the other hand, when returning to Pyatigorsk, people were so happy to see me and it was if I hadn’t had left. There’s something to be said concerning Russian and Caucasian sentimentalism. I miss the long toasts to family and friends, words that were from the heart. Here in the States we don’t spend time on toasts, the art of toasting has been lost (though I never want to have a bottle of vodka again). I miss compatroitism amongst the facilities, the plays, the dance performances, and lectures that PSLU hosted. It was a great way to learn about everyone, out of the class room and t was so great to have been apart of some of these events.

Secondly, I think on of the best adventures was having the opportunity to visit the cities of Astrakhan and Volgograd with my buddy Diogo. It was so good to see two new cities and represent the university as foreigners. Teaching thirty plus Russian children English for two weeks was a fun and challenging experience, one that most drove the both of us dog tired and crazy at the end of the day, but we celebrated and self medicated with pint after pint of beer. Seeing the sights on out days off and hanging out was also a great way to learn about the cities and about each to other, sharing life experiences and points of view. Our trip to Volgograd was similar and it was so cool to achieve the Best Delegate Award for a second time here at Volgograd State University. I wish my peers and professors at Hastings could had been there to share that experience with me. Seeing the war memorials at Volgograd was one of my bucket list activities and the feeling one gets when touching history and seeing it in person is almost indescribable. Things I had read and heard about had come to life before me.

Thirdly, getting my cherkesska in January, while on a trip to Nalchik. It was a spur of the moment decision after several months of comparing prices and quality at different stores. I look on my face was captured perfectly my Anna, as I was purchasing it. A smile from ear to ear. The acquisition of all parts the Circassians national regalia took the whole year to complete, but it was well worth the wait. Some of my most fond memories are marching in Nalchik with the Circassian flag in my hands, dressing the part. Dancing the Kabardinskaya Kafa at the ceremonies on Flag Day was also a surreal moment. I huge thanks to Anna for her support and for being my dance partner on Wednesday and Friday nights. I also have to thank you for your friendship and for our sharing love for all things Circassian. Meeting you was a fateful moment. I would have never guess to meet a Russian who loved Circassian culture so much and to a greater level then I. We’re kindred spirits you and I. And of course I must give credit to my brother, Elberd, for without you, my inspiration into the Caucasus may never have blossomed. Adige Wei Wei.

Fourthly, I gotta say something about those long, wonderful evenings in the various pubs. I was so blessed share drinks with such a interesting and amazing group of individuals. Your company was and is most appreciated and I miss having you around. Diogo, my wingman and beer buddy, it was so good to meet a guy who had I great love for beer. I special shout out to Alizee and Florane for introducing me to Belgian beer. I had know idea of all the wonderful flora aromas and tastes of spice that I was missing out on. If it wasn’t for you (along with Pierre and Christophe) I wouldn’t never gotten into drinking them. I can say now that they are some of the best beers I’ve had. I love our conversations and it was wonderful to have a diverse set of opinions and points of view. I most confess that having so many French speakers was at first daunting, but that was part of the charm and I can say it rubbed onto me. Merci beaucoup à vous tous.

Our Georgia trip was one of the best holidays I’ve had in a very long time. We got to do so much and eat all the tasty food. I love that I can say I’ve had a beer in one hand and a glass of wine in the other. The tall peaks and rolling hills of Georgia captive the mind and if the geography doesn’t phrase you, then the infectious smiles and warm hospitality of the Georgian people will make you melt. My Tbilisi Church tour was a success and in a way a kind of pilgrimage for me. A goal that I had been wanting to accomplish since the winter of 2014 when I first stepping into the streets of this beauty city.

So, all in all, an amazing year. Warm hugs and many thanks to Alina and Vika for your friendship and love. If it wasn’t for you both, Pyatigorsk would have been without heart and character. I miss you both terribly.

Thank you: Alina, Vika, Maddy, Molly, Diogo, Jeanne, Emma, Hesham, Ali, Anastasia, Diana, Yana, Tanya, Angelina, Max, Igor, Viktoryia Christophe, Nuri, Anna, Jan, Elberd, Sara, Alizee, Florane, the Slate family, and Patricia from making the year a great one and for sharing it with me.

Special thanks to Taylor for her love, support, and willingness to put up with another year of being apart. I love you.

Спасибо и наилучшими пожеланиями, ваш друг, всегда, Иeн.

Bitter-Sweet Endings

On May 23, 2016 By de TuttlevilleLeave a comment

Hello dear readers, I hope you are all well and enjoying the wonderful weather that May as to offer. The weather here in the Caucasus has been so very nice. Four of five days of sun with a sixth of rain, to add a little variety to the climate and to keep thing nice and green. I was so glad to see the all the great weather that we experienced in Georgia moved across the mountains and into the North Caucasus. It has felt very similar to the weather we have in Nebraska. I have to comment that when we returned from Georgia and drove across North Ossetia-Alania, a huge storm front moved into the area, dropping buckets of rain and quarter sized hail. Moving at 60 kilometers an hour, the sound was deafening and I was very concerned as the visibility was very poor. Our driver had never seen hail (stormy weather that I’m used to in Nebraska and in America in general is rarely seen in Europe) before and it was worrying that I had to tell him to slow down several times, the car fishtailing left and right. I’m very thankful that we made it back home in one piece.

I’ve been enjoying my final weeks in the Caucasus as much as possible. It is amazing to know that eight months have passed. It seems like a life time ago that I was in Grozny, touring the capital of Chechnya with my friends during first semester. The memories that I’ve made and shared have really had an impact on me, life experiences that have helped model and shape better my knowledge of this region and it’s many peoples. Seeing the old sites this year has been just as rewarding as well, making my time here more enjoyable. Sharing these memories with some very unique and wonderful people has made it all the better. Meeting individuals from all over the world helps put your own world into perspective and I’m very thankfully for the opportunity to have met people from every continent (except Australia). I only have twenty-some days felt here in this magnificent part of the world and I intend to make the best of it. Pyatigorsk has treated me very well, both this year and two years ago. The people at the Pyatigorsk State Linguistic University have been so kind and supportive and it some respects I’ve enjoyed my two years here better that my three at Hastings. The sense of community here , though made out of necessity, is very genuine. I’m not saying that in Hastings this wasn’t the case of that my own people are not hospitable, but I feel in some ways that my talents and interests have been better served here in the Caucasus.

I an effort to say my last goodbyes to some of the larger geographic features here, my friends and I took a climb up Mount Beshtau. I’ve climbed up with mountain every year that I’ve been here. My first climb was in October of 2013, when the leaves were all charging their colors. The view was beautiful with all the reds, oranges, and yellows flooding the scenery. It was the first excursion that I had made with friends, and the first time when I met my dear friend Vika. They are memories that I will never forget, the first mountain that had ever climbing in my life, starting at humble beginnings. The fellowing semester of 2014, I again went up the mountain during May with Alina and Vika, taking part in the festivities. It was a wonderful send off to a great year in the Caucasus. When I retuned, I climbed again in November (I wrote about this experience in a previous blog) and now I’ve made my final climb. It was a wonderful experience for me as it was my first time camping in the mountains. I’ve been camping a lot throughout my Boy Scouting career and it isn’t a foreign concept to me, but it was different to be 900 some meter above sea level, making a fire and sleeping under the stars.

We almost had to call our trip short, as it rained for an hour before hand. I was worried that the road to the mountain and the slopes of Beshtau were going to be too muddy and the ground to unstable. Beshtau is dangerous when one isn’t carful and like other mountains must be respected. Thankfully the rain stopped and the sun came out, drying things up a little bit. We had a lot of equipment with us, in regards to camping materials. My backpack was stuffed with bottles of water, a rain jacket, coffee, sugar, bread, some snacks and my briki or jazzve (my Turkish/Armenian/Greek coffee maker). I was very excited to make coffee with it on an open flame. Because of our weighty packs, we could taxis up to the base of the mountain, as it is three kilometers walk from Pyatigorsk. We started our trek at around 5 o’clock in the afternoon, the sun slowly wheeling across the sky. I walked with Vika and Maddy, the three of us reminiscing about our first walk up Beshtau. Christophe brought his camera with him, taking marvelous photos on the way. Alex, Alizee and Florane joined us, Maddy, Vika and I being out numbered by French speakers. It wasn’t a problem as I’m used to French being the dominate tongue in our group, but we all speak Russian and English so there are no misunderstandings (Alizee and Florane’s English is perfect, but their Belgians so less accent). We headed up the mountain, taking some of the less steep trails until we had to ascend the steepest part of our journey, about 12% grade. If someone fell over, they’d roll down the mountain and hit several rocks and trees on the way down. As the sun started to set, we made camp on a flat area, three quarters up the mountain.

Sitting around our fire on Beshtau, photo by Christophe.

Since we had little light remaining, we all gathered wood from our fire. I gathered a bunch of little sticks and twigs for kindling and built and fire pit out of some rocks near our camp site. I also made a little cooking pit, so we could piece hot embers into it, as to make cooking easier. There was some disagreement as to much wood was needed. Florane and I saying to the boys that we had more that enough for the night. It turns out that we did. We got the coals hot and Alex brought out some chicken and potatoes wrapped up in foil. I also brewed my coffee in my jazzve, Vika and I partaking in it’s tasty wonders. My friends also brought a lot of booze, Florane brought a bottle of wine that she bought in Armenia, Alex bringing several bottles of beer and vodka. As in traditional Caucasian fashion, we toasted to our drinks and had several rounds throughout the night. It was nice to have such a feast after a long and trier some climb. We song to some classic tones for the 70’s and 80’s, told stories and gazed into the fire that we had made. I love getting back to human roots, our society first starting as humble hunter-gathers making a living in the brush. I volunteered to watch the fire that evening, adding some wood here and there when needed. Vika also helped me, she and I talking together of most of the night when the others went to bed. The stars were bright, like gems in the dark void, shining from the light of our fire.

I get everyone up at 3 o’clock in the morning, so we could start our final trek to the summit. The biggest difference in mountain camping that I noticed as the lack of bugs. I’m used to hordes of insects, including the dreaded mosquitoes. I had my first camping experience of not getting eaten alive which was so nice. I wasn’t nearly was dirty either, as it was dry on the mountain and I wasn’t covered in sweat from a humid environment. It felt so good. During the middle of the night, my sleeping bag rolled down the mountain. After much searching, I found it wedged between two rocks about 50 meters below our camp site. I was so lucky that the poor thing didn’t bounce all the way down the whole mountain. I was smart and wrapped my sleeping bag in a plastic bag, so it was clean and not covered in mud. After I climbed back up, we all quickly gathered our things and started walking up the steep path. As we hit tree line, the geography flattened out a bit. In the navy blue morning sky, we could see a splitter of light from the sun. We slowly ascend up the northern side of the summit, the sun quickly reviling itself on our left, exposed the ground to more and more light. At one point I was crawling in the ground, grabbing the grass and pulling myself upward as this point was so steep. After much struggle and pain, I managed to finally ascend to the top. The view at dawn was breathe taking. I’m so glad that we made the effort to do this, as he scenery alone was worth the time. As the sun rose, it illuminated all of the region. The towns of Essentuki, Zheleznovodsk, and Mineralnye Vody, came to life. I burned the imagines of this beautiful scene into my mind, a time that will forever have a lasting impression on me.

Another lasting memory of this year I will have is of our last English Club. I first want to give a huge thanks to Andrew and Kristi Slate, who have made this years English Club a very successful and fun endeavor. Your ideas and willingness to teach not made an impression of so many students during the past year and I believe they will remember it for many years to come. We have had many amazing evenings, sawing Russian students our culture while giving them new and useful English vocabulary. For our last event, we held Pyatigorsk State Linguistic Universities’ first ever Oscars. Andrew and Kristi made popcorn for everyone and we watched clips from famous English speaking films, the students guessing the film and it’s genre. Maddy and got chips from several films including: the original “Toy Story,” the musical “Grease,” the action comedy “Hot Fuzz,” and others. We also had the students discuss what their favorite films were. The “Harry Potter” series seem to be very popular amongst our students. Our last project for them was to create their own trailer to be shown at our Oscars, the students acting out a scene of their own or recreating a scene from a previous film. One group did a remake of “Twilight,” two other groups did a mock up of “Harry Potter,” while our last group did a parity of the “Amazing Spiderman,” Caucasus style. It was very funny. We then gave out awards for Best Actor, Best Actress, Best Supporting Actor, Best Supporting Actress, Best Visuals, and Best Original Screen Play.” It was a lot of fun and I always get enjoy in seeing the students smiles on their faces when at English Club. I will be sad not to be a part of it next year, but I’ve had a good run and I hope the I’ve impacted these students in some beneficial way. So, here is a salute to you, and I wish you all the best in luck and in life.

Another moment that signaled my time here is drawing to a close was that of the exam. The main purpose of my second year long stay here in at Pyatigorsk was to take the Russian language exam, a document displaying my fluency in the Russian language. This exam is the official paper that most international institutions will look at during the hiring process. The exam in of itself was in a state of flux, as the administration in Moscow was having issues taking to find people certified to administer the test. I was given the choice of taking either the A-1 or B-2 exams, and after some waiting, I ended up taking the A-1 test. This test isn’t the ideal level that I wanted to take, but I’d rather take a test then not at all. I however, would have preferred to take the B-2 exam as I was paying 6,000 rubles (90 some dollars at the current exchange rate) for the privilege of taking said test. The international office had those of us taking the exam met at the university at 2 o’clock, the Chinese students, myself, along with Andrew and Kristi took the exam. We were put in different rooms and began the exam. We first started with an audio exam, a recorded questionnaire. We answered by choosing the current phrase or sentence, a multiple choice section. This lasted for about 20 minutes. We then went on to a reading exam, text analysis. After this, the exam progressed to grammar, another multiple choice section (thankfully). Russian grammar is difficult, but in a pitch, one can put the ended of the verbs together as they generally match. After this I then had an oral exam, speaking of my family, work and why was studying in Russia. The whole ordeal lasted about two hours and I walked away from the exam feeling confidant in my work. Yet, another leap jumped.

One of the final “nails in the head” which highlighted my departing soon, was Alina and Vika’s graduation from university. I’ve watched these young women change and grow as individuals over the past three years and it has been a pleasure to be apart of their lives and academic careers, talking with them and helping them improve their language skills. I’ve very proud to call them both close friends and I hope that it remains this way, even with a 7,000 mile barrier in distance, but this why we have Skype and the like. Unlike in the States, the Russians (at least at Pyatigorsk State Linguistic University), have their grad ceremony before they complete their finals. This ceremony (like many Russian concerts at university) involves singing and dancing, with elements of presentations of awards to both students and their faculty members. Unfortunately, Vika’s father is seriously ill and she could not attend the festivities. I wanted to support them both so I arrived at Alina’s respect to sing and dance with her. She is one of the senior members within the German and English Faculty and she is well liked by her peers. We danced to Jerry Lee Lewis’s, “Great Balls of Fire,” Alina dancing while I sang. We did several rehearsals before hand and I think the whole thing turned out all right. The ceremony lasted for three hours and had several dances, songs and presentations by the students who graduated. It was long, but very enjoyable.

After the ceremony, we quickly changed clothes and Alina, Maddy and I entered a taxi to get to the graduation dinner, being held in the town of Essentuki, a 15 minute drive from Pyatigorsk on the other side of Beshtau. It was a very formal event, most of the women were in gowns and the men in suits. The event was held a restaurant which looked very expensive, judging by the scenery, a courtyard with several outdoor sitting areas, a couple of carriages for taking photos in, a pen for exotic birds, including a peacock and a peahen and lastly, a series of gardens. The graduates took many photo shoots in and around the restaurant. We then headed up to the second floor of the main building. Upon entering, I was shocked to see the decor of the floor, I felt like I was at a wedding and I then realized where the 1,900 rubles went which I had given a month before. We then sat down, waiting for the event to start. The professors gave a little talk, as did some of the students, including Alina. I was happy to see my friend Anna (another Anna from the Alina’s faculty, I know, it’s hard to keep track of all the Annas and Sashas etc.) I hadn’t had seen her since October, when she was pregnant with her first child. She was with her husband, Alexei, I very kind and observant man from what I gather after meeting him. He and I shared a few glasses of vodka together and toasted to life, success and the graduates. The dinner was like a banquet, I that we had so much food, that just kept coming and coming. Plates of salad, khinkali, khichiney, chicken shashlik, etc. were on the table. We also had wine, champagne and vodka. All the Russian men within the first hour were already drunk, the girls taking their time. In between course there was dancing and we all dancing and ate the night away. I had such a very good time sharing in Alina’s and her peers special moment. I was and am so proud of her and Vika for all of the hard work and effort they have put into their studies and into their development as individuals. I felt like a big brother, watching his little sister graduate from college. Toward the end of the evening, Alina, Maddy and I sat together outside at one of the tables and talked together, sharing a bottle of wine. A great end to a wonderful day.

Maddy and I left the party at around 11:30 in the evening, as we had places to go the next day. We both are trying to maximize our time here, seeing the last sites before we head to our respective homes. She left for North Ossetia and Ingushetia to see the old watch towers and monasteries that are in the foothills. I travelled to Nalchik for the last time for participate in the Circassian Day of Mourning. This is an annual event held on the 21st of May, remembering the forced deportation of an estimated 1.5 million Circassians from their homelands by the Russian Empire in 1864, marking the end of the Caucasus War (1763-1864) and the ethnocide if not genocide of a culture. The deported group of Circassians fled to the lands of the Ottoman Empire, notably to modern Turkey, Israel, Syria and Jordan. These communities form the Circassian Diaspora of around 5 million. Only million Circassians live in their historic homelands in the Northwest Caucasus. The Day of Mourning is an international affair, with the Diaspora communities in Amman, Istanbul, and Jerusalem having their own marches. Here in the Caucasus, the cities of Nalchik and Maikop had their own events. The events in Nalchik were very moving and it was honor to march within the rally there. Hundreds of people with Circassian flags (including myself), marched around the squares of Lenin, Abkhazia etc. until we reached the memorial to the Caucasus War. I was dressed in cherkesska, as were many others, Anna, Jan and this friends (Turkish Circassian Diaspora) joined in and we all marched together. Jan took some very good photos during the rally. As we approached the great bronze tree remarking the memorial, a horn was blown three times, signifying the exodus of Circassian people. Songs were sung of the events in Kabardian and Adyghean (to be honest I don’t know which), a moment of sorrow, but with a silver lining of hope. It was a sobering moment, one filled with honor and respect, a nation united through shared culture and history, even if spread across the world.

Jan, Anna and friends at the memorial, by the Circassian flag, photo by Jan.

As the festivities concluded, people laid wreaths and roses on the Caucasus War memorial, a giant Circassian flag was hung in the background. As I stood watching, I lost track of Anna, Jan and friends. They were on the other side of the memorial, taking photos, as I found out later. While this was going on, I met up with my friend Elberd and we took some photos and after he finished his work (again as coward control), we looked for Anna and Jan. After about 30 minutes of searching, we decided to head out. I changed out of my cherkesska and we get into Elberd’s car, heading north to his parents home in Sarmarkovo. It was an enjoyable drive, seeing the Kabardian countryside, it’s rolling hills moving across the landscape like waves on the ocean. It was so good to be home in Elberd’s home town. Sarmarkovo is a marvelous town, established in the 1730s. You can really get a sense of the history here when you look at the stone walls scattered across the town. Elberd’s home has had several improvements since I was last there, the Kotsev Clan is building a new kitchen and we stayed in the summer house on this visit. I was so happy to see Elberd’s mother, grandmother and grandfather. Their all doing well for themselves and it looks like the apple orchard is going to yield a nice crop of fruit this year. They should be ready to harvest in late September. The grapes at the house are also growing well, maybe wine is in the future for the family. We ate and ate and ate, toasting to friendship, Circassia, family and for all the joys in life. Elberd cooked chicken shashlik and we sat and shared a meal together in the apple orchard. This is a moment that I’ll never forget, sharing a traditional Karbardian meal with a great friend and brother, toasting to our loved ones with a bottle of Scotch whiskey. Such a perfect weekend.

The Kotsev’s apple orchard, in Sarmakovo.

Well, my friends I’m signing off. This will be my last blog before I leave the Caucasus. I’ll write a follow up when I return to Nebraska. For now I want to enjoy my last moments here, as writing takes a day or so. God willing, I leave on the 14th of June and should arrive back home on the afternoon of the 15th. I’m very thankful for all the opportunities that I have been during my stay here in this amazing part of the world. Thank you all for reading my thoughts over the last year and for your support. I wish you all the best, from Russia with regards.

Respectfully yours, Ian Alexander Tuttle

P.S. Adige Wei Wei

Georgia Trip

On May 14, 2016 By de TuttlevilleLeave a comment

Hello dear readers, I hope you are all doing well in the respective corners of the world in which you reside. I’m so happy for those of you whom I know who are graduating from college, both least week and this week back in the States. It is another step in life that is rewarding. Don’t get hung up on the job field to much, college is more that just to get degree. College is to develop good life experiences and to exchange ideas. All of my blog this time around is going to focus on my trip to Georgia, so get a drink of lemonade or tea (or a beer, even better) and relax. Get ready for an info load on a country that is near and dear it me and has so much to offer in regards to culture, food and sites to see and it’s visa free.

Georgia is a country located in the cross roads between the Eastern and Western Worlds. Generally speaking, the country is considered a part of Europe, and the Georgian people themselves would describe their nation as a part of Europe, especially after the fall of the Soviet Union, the nation pivoting toward NATO and the European Union. I say that today this is certainly true, but I would also remark that Georgia’s geo-historical past and location also gives it many Eastern characteristics. Georgia is located in between the Greater Caucasus and Lesser Caucasus Mountain ranges. To the north is the Russian Federation, to Georgia’s direct south is the nation of Armenia and to the southwest, Turkey. In the southeast the country borders Azerbaijan, making it the first of the three “Caucasian States.” Georgia’s geographic location has made it both a treasure trove of history and artifacts from the Hellenic Era and from the Ottoman and Persian Empires, but as a consequence, the country has been invaded several times, most notably by the Mongol hordes, the Ottoman Empire, Persia and by Russia. This has given the Georgian people a strong sense of pride and longing for independence, something they finally got as a nation in 1991. As some of you may remember, Georgia was recently invaded by Russia in 2008, displacing thousands of people and creating the regions of South Ossetia and Abkhazia as semi-autonomous territories under Russian military and political supervision. The Georgian government views these regions as occupations of their lands, an issue which is still hotly debated within the international community.

This latest event has made getting to Georgia from Russia a complex process of border checks and reviewing of passports. The only way for most Westerns to enter Georgia from Russia by car or bus is by the route of the “Georgian Military Highway,” as it’s been dubbed. This road has historically been the most reliable way to get through the Greater Caucasus and many invading armies have used this route to get between both Western and Eastern Worlds. The first recorded army to cross through these paths was Alexander the Great’s, on it’s way to the Hindu Kush. Likewise the Russians used this same road to roll their tanks into Georgia, repeating an age old process and adage, “Location, location, location.” After recovering from a stomach virus two days before, I felt well enough to travel, so Diogo, Jeanne and I headed to the bus station in Pyatigorsk on the morning of the 30th of April (my sickness delayed our departure for a day). After much negotiating, we managed to find a driver who was willing to take use to Vladikavkaz, the first stop on the journey as there are no direct routes from Pyatigorsk to Tbilisi (the capital of Georgia, and our destination). We crammed into our drivers mini-van and sat for 3 hours, enjoying the landscapes of Kabardino-Balkaria and North Ossetia-Alania.

Upon arriving in Vladikavkaz, Diogo contacted a driver who makes his living ferrying people across the borders of Russian and Georgia and he meet us at the bus station. We had a bite to eat at a local cafe, munching on a mix of Ossetian pies filled with cheese and potatoes. This was a huge meal which we need before our drive (we even had a box of pies to take us with us, which we ate later when in Tbilisi). The drive got interesting when we changed drivers outside of Vladikavkaz, our driver replacing himself with his son. As we started driving I was reminded about how crazy people can drive around here and we’re very lucky to have arrived in Tbilisi that evening in one piece. Besides having a crazy driver, that drive in of itself was good. I was looking forward to driving through the mountain passes and seeing up close the towering peaks that I gaze at from here in Pyatigorsk. The mountains were very impressive, once we got in them. My lovely drive was delayed for two hours however, as we got to the border check point in Dariali, Russia. Barbed wire, road blocks, lines of semi-trucks and uniformed men with AK-47s become the new view and part of our trip. Our driver may have driven crazy, but I was happy to have him, as he knew (or seemed to) every guard and official who we came across when at the border. We even managed to skip all the traffic exiting Russia (a good 30 cars) and get to the head of the line with no problems. We then gave our passports to the authorities and they checked our information. The three of us were then taken into separate rooms where FSB agents (Russian Federal Security) questioned us for over an hour. They asked for my “life story,” who I was, who my parents were, why was I studying in Russia, why I was going to Georgia, where in Georgia etc. It was a process that I was familiar with when coming back from Tbilisi during my first trip, two years ago, being questioned by the airport authorities in Mineralnye Vody. It’s just an annoyance as it takes a lot of time. I’m sick of bring called a “spy.” All I want to do is get some cultural experiences, learn interesting history, see great sites, and eat tasty food.

After being treated to the wonders for Russian border personal and their “hospitality,” we got on the road to drive through the Darial Gorge. A fun fact about this geographical point is that it is the only land route to Georgia that is wide enough for tanks. This is way the Russians invaded Georgia in 2008 by this route. The geology and topography are very different on this side of the Caucasus. The mountains here are rich in iron, so it reminded me a lot of the Colorado Rockies, as the rocks are almost a blood red in color at some places. The mountain slopes are covered by alpine forest, that is usually surrounded by arid glasses, but it rained a lot before we arrived so the plant life were vibrant shades of green. In general, the landscape of eastern Georgia has numerous valleys and gorges that are separated by the mountains. Looking at these gorges from high elevations was a super cool moment. We passed the town of Stepantsminda, a tiny, cute village on the Military Highway. We stopped near a natural mountain spring and drank from it. The water was so cold and clear. It was amazing to know that I was drinking water from several hundred feet up. The range of mountains we were driving through is called Kazbegi, named after Mount Kazbek, one of the dominant landmarks in the region. As we traveled farther on the road the landscape rose to a 12% grade and we quickly ascended to 2,500 meters (about 8,202 feet). The view was breath taking. Our taxi driver stopped on the road near the town of Sioni (there are many towns and monuments in Georgia named Sioni). You can see all of the valley and the mountains from this point and the lake below was beautiful.

Diogo, Jeanne and I in the Georgian Highlands of the Dusheti region.

We then slowly descended down the mountains. From the car window we could see all of the ski resorts and the cafes. This region is famous for its resorts and it most be packed in the winter months during the ski season. I was informed by our driver that the snow begins in October and can snow until May. There was a lot o snow in the mountains when we drove up and I was surprised to see it. Descending was great as we really got to see the changes in topography that Georgia is famous for. Deciduous forests covered the valleys and all the flowering species of tree were in bloom. From the look of the trees I’d say that there are a lot of varieties including: maple, ash, and hazelnut. As we traveled from the Upper Alazani Valley, the forest became that of yew tree. Georgia is one of the few countries in the world that claim all but two of the biomes, lacking tundra and taiga. With is diverse climate and geography, the country has an incredible list of animal and plant life. Georgia is home to over a 1,000 species of vertebrates including: 330 birds, 160 fish, 48 reptiles and 11 amphibians, as well as bears, wolves, lynxes, Caucasian tur (a kind of ram) and the rare Caucasian leopard. Georgia even has 501 different types of spiders (a fact I’m less enthused about).

Before we arrived in Tbilisi, we stopped at the town of Natakhtari. This is yet another tiny village on the road, but it is home to one and only Natakhtari brewery, which produces some of the most famous and tasty beer, lemonade and soft drinks that the country has to offer. Our taxi driver as kind enough to give to me as a gift, a bottle of Natakhtari grape favored lemonade. It is tasty and similar to grape soda in the States. We arrived in Tbilisi in the late afternoon and hired another taxi driver to get to our hostel which Diogo had kindly reserved for us a few days in advance. The hostel is called “Grape Hostel.” It is a nice place as far as hostels go and our ten day stay was comfortable (much more so than I had expected). The location wasn’t bad either. We were based on 11 Jansughi Kakihidze Street, on the east bank of the Mtkvari River. After a good night sleep, we decided to get metro passes which was a brilliant idea. Out of metros that I’ve ridden on, Tbilisi’s is by far the best (though I say this coming from a region in America that lacks metros, so this is just from my experience) as it is easy to navigate and very cheap. We were only two metro stops away from Liberty Square (one metro stop from the famous Rustaveli Avenue), the central point in the city, displaying a tall stone pillar with a golden statue of Saint George, the patron saint of Georgia. The area we lived in was the fashion center of the city. Shops selling both French and Italian brands hung in the windows. It was also an area that had a lot of Turkish restaurants and maybe these establishments cater to Turkish tourists or immigrants (or both). It isn’t surprising because Turkish culture has heavily influenced the region as a whole as well as the fact the Georgia and Turkey share a border.

Tbilisi is home to around 1.5 million people, but the city feels like Omaha. The city was founded back in the fifth-century by the King of Iberia (the name of the eastern region of Georgia from the antiquity). The city has been also been called Tiflis under Russian Imperial rule (1801-1917), and was the seat of the Imperial Viceroy who governed the Caucasus. Tbilisi has throughout history, benefited from the lucrative Silk Route trade and this intern has influenced the cities architecture with elements of medieval and classical varieties from both the Eastern and Western Worlds, as well as some Soviet elements (thankfully, I saw little of the Soviet blight on this beautiful city). Tbilisi has been the historical and cultural capital of Georgia since at least 1122, when King David the Builder entered the city after his battle with the Seljuk Turks, uniting the regions of Iberia and Kutaisi (Western Georgia). This event then started the Georgian Golden Age from the 12th to 13th centuries. The city is also an important literary and religious center for the Georgians. During the Georgian Golden Age, the Georgian alphabet and the Georgian Church were very influential. A great example of this is Shota of Rustaveli’s (Shota Rustaveli, named after where he was from), poem, The Knight in the Leopard’s Skin, a work consisting of over 1600 Rustavelian Quatrains. It is considered by Georgians as a “masterpiece in our nations literature.” Until the 20th century, a copy of the poem was a part of a brides dowry, as the poem itself displays elements of Georgian culture, an allegory to the rule of Queen Tamara of Georgia, told through a chivalric romance.

Here are a few lines from the poem that I’ve looked up. Here is the prologue:

“თამარს ვაქებდეთ მეფესა სისხლისა ცრემლ-დათხეული,
ვთქვენი ქებანი ვისნი მე არ-ავად გამორჩეული.
მელნად ვიხმარე გიშრის ტბა და კალმად მე ნა რხეული,
ვინცა ისმინოს, დაესვას ლახვარი გულსა ხეული.”

“By shedding tears of blood we praise King (Queen*, Rustaveli emphasis Tamara as “King” as she is so important to him) Tamara, whose praise I, not ill-chosen, have told forth. For ink I have used to lake of jet, and for pen a pliant crystal. Whoever hears, a jagged spear will piece his heart.”

An icon of Queen Tamara at Metekhi Church of the Assumption.

Powerful words. I can see why the Georgians would put such an emphasis on Rustaveli. The Georgians are also very proud of their alphabet, one of the few in the world that is original, forming in the 1st millennium BC in Iberia. The language is split into three subgroups of the greater Kartvelian (Georgian in Georgian) languages, the others being Svan and Mingrelian. Old Georgian even has been documented in antiquity, from writing by the Roman grammarian, Marcus Aurelius, describing the language as a “incomprehensible tongue.” The written language was a product of the conversion of the Georgian elite to Christianity in the mid-4th century, the grammar structure similar to that of Aramaic. The modern alphabet consists of 33 characters, with only 5 vowels. I personal love Georgian calligraphy and it was a treat to see it written all over the icons of the many of churches that I visited during my time in Tbilisi. I love the lopes and curves that many of the letters have. My favorite letter is the “ლ” one of the two “L” sounds that the language has. Many other famous writers have visited Tbilisi, many from north of the border. Pushkin, Lermontov and Tolstoy have all been to the city, inspiring Russian minds in Saint Petersburg and Moscow through their writings about the exotic nature and beauty of the Caucasus. Georgian poets and writers such as Ilia Chavchavadze (1837-1907), Iakob Gogebashvili (1840-1912), Alexander Griboyedov (1795-1829) and others have also called the city home at one point or another, furthering Georgian cultural influence in the region.

One of the things I wanted to do when in Tbilisi was experience the multi-confessional culture of the city. Ethnic, religious and cultural diversity has been a staple in this town. The urban folklore and language during the 17th and 18th centuries have been called tblilisuri (literally meaning, “belonging to Tbilisi”) and this has been personified by the cultural institutions and by the churches that have been built in the city. On our first full day in the city, Jeanne and I walked around Liberty Square and Rustaveli Avenue, where I spotted the first church on my long list. Kashveti Church was built between 1904 and 1910 and was designed after the medieval Georgian Cathedral, Samtasvisi. The construction was sponsored by the Georgian nobility and bourgeoisie and in 1947, Georgian painter Lado Gudiashvili painted a series of frescoes on the churches walls. The church was damaged by the Soviets, who attempted to destroy the structure, but thankfully, they never finished the job. The word kashveti, is derived from the Georgian words ka for “a stone” and shav “to birth.” I visited on Easter Sunday and unfortunately didn’t take any photos of the interior as I didn’t want to disturb the individuals worshipping there. I did however, enter the church and witness part of the service. The choir sang beautifully and the icons within the Kashveti are very beautiful, as are Gudiashvili’s frescoes.

The ceiling of the exterior dome of Kashveti Church.

My next series of churches that I saw was on the second day. I was walking toward Old Tbilisi (the oldest part of town) and was in the middle of an alleyway filled with cafes and shops, when I turned a corner and there in was. Anchiskhati Basilica is nested in a square next to the river and if your not paying attention, you can easily miss it. The basilica dates back to the sixth century, making it one of the oldest churches in Tbilisi (commissioned by King Dachi of Iberia, 522-534). It is dedicated to the Virgin Mary. It was renamed Anchiskhati (or “the Icon of Ancha) in 1675 when the icon of the Savior at the Ancha monastery in Klarjeti (in modern day Turkey) was moved to the church in order to preserve it from Ottoman invasion. The icon was saved and it is now on display at the Art Museum of Georgia. This church has also been lucky in that it has been only damaged several times during the 15th and 17th centuries due to wars between Georgia and the Persian and Ottoman Empires. During the Soviet Era, Anchiskhati was turned into a handicrafts workshop, all of the icons being removed or destroyed. It was only after the fall of the Soviet Union that the church once again became a house of worship. The Anchiskhati Choir is based out of this church and is one of the leading exponents of Georgian polyphonic choral music, the oldest form of polyphony music in the Christen World.

After visiting Anchiskhati, I headed across the river by way of the famous Dry Bridge and took a quick walk through Rike Park. Perched onto of a rocky outcropping, is Metekhi Church of the Assumption. Metekhi is not only a church, but it is also a neighborhood and district in Tbilisi. The whole area is elevated on a cliff that overlooks the Mtkvari river. According to traditional lore, this district was one of the earliest fortified settlements in the city, housing the residence of King Vaktang I of Gorgasali, were he commissioned a church. The name of the settlement however, is recorded in the 12th century and means in Georgian, “the area around the palace.” Legend tells that the site is the resting place of Saint Shushanik, a fifth century martyr, but little of these original structures have survived the Mongol raids of 1235. Metekhi was commissioned by King Saint Demetrius II between 1278-1284 and is unique in regards to Georgian Church architecture, as it is domed. The Church is a cross-cupola, with three projecting apses in the base facade and four freestanding pillars support the cupola within the interior. Georgian painter Dimitri Shevardnadze led an opposition movement to save the Church during the early Soviet Era, when the infamous Laverenti Beria (one of the most brutal men in the Soviet leadership at the time next to Stalin), ordered the Church to be destroyed. Shevardnadze was imprisoned, but the Church was never destroyed, the Communist leadership turning Metekhi into a theatre. Outside Metekhi, there is an equestrian statue of King Vakhtang I of Gorgaslan (sculpted by Elguja Amashukeli, erected in 1961), commemorating a strong leader in Georgian history and the legend of his commissioning of the settlement. Metekhi has beautiful stone engraving on the arches and on the door fames.

Engraving on the arches of Metekhi Church of the Assumption.

After my visit in the church, I stopped at a local wine vender within the Metekhi neighborhood and asked the owner a few questions concerning Georgian wines, specifically the regional differences in regards to favor and types of wines used. I was given the opportunity to sample a few vintages of wine. I especially liked the Akhasheni, a semi-sweet red from Badagoni Wine Company, located in Zemo Khodasheni, Georgia. It is a nice example of traditional Georgian wine made from the Saperavi grape (a species native to Georgia) within the Kakheti region. The favor was described as a having a “dark-pomegranate color and a velvety taste with hits of chocolate.” It was very tasty so I brought it, at a reasonable piece, 25 lari ($12.5). I then crossed the bridge to Old Tbilisi and I headed to Saint Gevork of Mughni Church. This is my first Armenian church to visit and it was a wonderful experience as the interior was beautiful. The Church was originally built in the 13th century, destroyed and later rebuilt in 1756. During the Soviet Era, it served as a museum of folk art, the interior ruined by pro-Communist demonstrators in 1991. In 2009, the churches dome collapsed, but it was rebuilt with government funds and donations from Armenians both in Tbilisi and in Armenia (as well as from Armenian Diaspora). The churches icons have all been donated and it is amazing to see how beautiful the Church is now, knowing that it has been in pieces.

As I was walking around Old Tbilisi, I ran into a friend from mine who I met in Volgograd. Fabian is a Germany student who Diogo and I spent so time with during the Model UN there and when we talked about our trip to Georgia, Fabian informed us that he lived and worked in Tbilisi for two years, knew the sites and spoke Georgian. He and I talked and said if we met we in Tbilisi, he’d show me some of the city. By the winds of fate, I saw him standing in near a restaurant by the Saint Gevork of Mughni Church. I called out to him and he started looking around until he saw me waves my arms up and down like a chicken. We embraced and he invited me to sit down with him and share a Georgian meal. We met up with a friend of his and ordered several Georgian staples including: khinkail, khachapuri (Mingerlian/Megruli are region in Georgia, with cheese filling and cheese baked on top of the bread), sulguni cheese, stuffed mushrooms, lobiani (sort of like refried beans with cilantro, cooked in a clay cup), and Saperavi wine. It was a delicious and savory feast.

The three of us then headed to Rike Park and got on a ski lift to got to the top of Narikala Fortress, an ancient wall overlooking Tbilisi. The fortress consists of two walled sections on a steep hill between the sulfur baths and the botanical gardens of the city. On the lower court there is the Church of Saint Nicholas, with a beautiful inter section decorated with frescos showing scenes from the Bible and Georgian history. The fortress was built in the fourth century and was expanded in the seventh century and also by King David the Builder during the 11th century. The Mongols called the fortress “Narin Qala,” or “The Little Fortress.” Parts of the fortress has been damaged by war and by earthquakes. The view from this vantage point is spectacular as you can see all of Tbilisi and the statue of Mother Georgia stands strong and proud. In her right hand is a sword and in her left hand is a bottle of wine. Symbolically, wine is a representation of Georgian blood, and when friends drink wine together, they are “sharing blood.” Mother Georgia defends this “blood” with her sword.

The view of Tbilisi from Narikala Fortress.

My last church to visit on that day was Sioni Cathedral at Tbilisi, is of medieval Georgian tradition in regards to architecture and the name. Sioni in Georgian is translated to “Mount Zion” in and is distinguished from other sites which bear the same name, by adding the “at Tbilisi” bit. The church is located on the eastern bank of the Kura River, on Sionis Kucha Street and was built in the 6th and 7th centuries (the cathedral was completed under the leadership of King David the Builder in 1112). Since that time, the church has been destroyed during invasions (once by Arab armies in the 7th century and again by Timerlane’s Timurid hordes in 1386) and rebuilt (a common theme within Tbilisi’s church history). The church was also devastated by an earthquake in 1668, much of the structure and the southern chapel having to be replaced. The current church is based on the 13th century version with some remodeling work from the 17th and 19th centuries. Sioni Cathedral was the main Georgian Orthodox Cathedral and the seat of the Catholics-Patriarch of All Georgia until the Sameba Holy Trinity Cathedral was consecrated in 2004. The cathedral has a beautiful interior with both medieval frescoes and modern murals. The murals were painted by Russian general Knyaz Grigory Gargarin (1810-1893) between 1850 and 1860. Another section of murals on the western wall were painted by Georgian artist Levan Tsutskiridze in the 1980s. There is also a stone iconostasis that dates back to the 1850s, replacing a wooden one that was burned during the Persian invasion of Tbilisi in 1795. At the left of the altar, there is a venerated Grapewine cross which, according to legend was forged by Saint Nino, a Cappadocian (central Anatolia, or modern Turkey) woman who preached Christianity in the Caucasus during the early 4th century. The cathedral is the famous site of the signing of the Russian Imperial manifesto on the Annexation of Georgia on April 12, 1802, by Russian General Karl von Knorring and the assembly of Georgian nobles (any nobles who disagreed, were imprisoned). Unlike many of its sister churches, Sioni reminded an active place of worship during the Soviet Era. It is my favorite church in Tbilisi.

After three days in Tbilisi, we all headed to the town of Mtskheta. After much searching at one of the several bus stations, we managed to find a marshotka going to the town. It is about a 20 kilometers (12 miles) north of Tbilisi, located on the confluence of the Aragvi river. It was only about a 33 minute drive, which was good, because the marshotka was packed. After we arrived in Mtskheta, I recommended that we stop by and eat something as in was around noon. I had read of a nice place online called Salobie Restaurant. Little did we know that the restaurant was three kilometers from the town, across the river. As we were figuring out what to do, we met a Dutch gentlemen named Peter who had traveled with us on the marshotka. He asked us questions about what to see in the town and we invited him to join us for lunch. By luck, there was a taxi waiting near by, so the four of us got in a drove to the restaurant. It was nice place, with a brewery, wine cellar and outdoor tables. We sat outside to enjoy the warm, sunny weather. We helped explain to Peter some of the dishes in Georgian cuisine and I ordered a Adjarian (Acharuli/Adjaruli) khachapuri with some khinkali and of course a liter of Saperavi wine, as well as a glass of ice cold beer. It was a wonderful meal and I’ve become a convert to Georgian wines, but I prefer semi-sweet reds anyway, so it works out well. After our meal, we discussed our next plan, either head to Mtskheta first or to go up the huge hill overlooking the city to see the Jvari Monastery. We decided to head up to the monastery, but we need transport. In the end we hitched hiked to the monastery, which I must confess was my first time doing say activity.

The Jvari Monastery stands on the rocky hilltop at the confluence of the Mtkvari and Aragvi rivers. According to legend, the monastery was built on the location where Saint Nino converting King Mirian III of Iberia (Eastern Georgia) to Christianity in the 4th century. The foundations of Jvari are built on the ruins on a pagan temple. The site was first marked by large wooden cross, which reportedly drew pilgrims from all over the Caucasus. The present building is generally thought to be built between 590 and 605 by Erismtavari Stepanoz I. This is based on the Jvari inscriptions on it’s facade which mentions the principal builders of the church: Stephanoz II, Demetrius (brother of Stepanoz I), and Adarnase II (son of Stepanoz II). During the Soviet Era, Jvari was preserved as a national monument, but across to the site was limited. After Georgia gained it’s independence in 1991, Jvari was restored to active religious use and was listed (along with several other monuments in Mtskheta) as a UNESCO (United Nations Educational, Scientific and Culture Organization) World Heritage Site in 1994. Thankfully, the monastery has never been destroyed, but there is concern for the structure, as it has suffered centuries of wind and water erosion, along with inadequate maintenance. Jvari is one of the earliest examples of four-apses churches with four niches and a domed tetraconch, with an open central interior and that transitions to a square central bay to the base of he dome’s drum. This is an architectural style that is unique to Georgia, Armenian and in Caucasian Albania. Jvari is believed to have influenced other styles in the region. It was so good to literally touch history, as I walked the grounds of this holy site and entered the monastery. The stones and facades looked ancient, much of the paint faded, by time. It was my first UNESCO site to have seen one my visit to Georgia.

After observing the monastery, paying my respects to Saint George and soaking in the amazing scenery, we managed to find another taxi driver and we headed back down the huge hill and reentered Mtskheta. The town is older that the monastery, being built in the 5th century BC, making one of the oldest settlements in the country. It was the capital of the Georgian Kingdom of Iberia (modern Kartli) form the 3rd century BC to the 5th century AD. It has been a town of Christian pilgrimage since 337 and remains the headquarters of the Georgian Orthodox Church, being declared a Holy City b the Catholicos-Patriarch Ilia II of Georgia in accordance of the written testament of his 11th century predecessor, Melchizedek I of Georgia. The town also is home to Svetitskhoveli Cathedral of the Twelve Apostles (svetitskhoveli meaning “the living pillar”), another UNESCO World Heritage Site. The cathedral was originally built in the 4th century and was damaged several times during the various invasions by Arabs, Persians and by Timurlane’s Timurid hordes. Over the centuries, the church has been built in layers, with the basilica added in the 5th century, followed by the present cathedral in the 11 century (between 1010 to 1029) in a cross-dome style by the architect Arsakidze. A relief on a sculpture on the external northern wall, reads: “The Hand of Arsukidze, slave of God, may forgiveness by his.” The cathedral is also surrounded by a defensive wall, commissioned by King Erekle II in 1787. Svetitskhoveli, is known as the burial site of Christ’s Mantle, as many famous and important priests, soldiers and nobles are buried here on the cathedrals grounds. The cathedral is so huge and I can only compare it to Saint Issac’s Cathedral in Saint Petersburg, in regards to it’s size and awe. The iconostasis is magnificent and it is the icons depicting the Stations of the Cross are carved in wood, in great detail. It was so humbling to be on the grounds of such a holy and historical site, feeling the atmosphere of Georgia’s version of the Vatican. Of the churches that I saw on my trip to Georgia, Svetitskhoveli is my favorite. On the way back to the bus station in Mtskheta, I bought myself some homemade churchkhela from a local stand and quickly visited the Shiomghvine monastery (another beautiful religious site in Mtskheta), before the last buses left for Tbilisi.

Svetitskhoveli Cathedral of the Twelve Apostles

After a restful nights sleep, I awoke and started my next round of religious site touring in Tbilisi. Diogo and Jeanne came with me during this excursion. We walked over to Old Tbilisi and saw the sulfur baths (I may case revisited), built by the Romans and then improved by the Ottomans and also enjoyed the nature around the streams, included a pair of frogs that were having a competition of who could make the most noise. We then headed to the visit the Juma Mosque. It looked very similar to the White Mosque in Astrakhan, in regards to it’s interior. The exterior is red brick and at first I didn’t even recognize the building as a mosque until I saw the golden crescent on the point of the tower. Enhancing the religious diversity, we stumbled upon the Great Synagogue on the edge of Old Tbilisi. The building was in a similar design of the Juma Mosque, red brick in all. After walking around most of Old Tbilisi, we needed a rest from the May heat. So, what better way to freshen up then to stop at a brewery. We happened upon Alani Brewery, a local joint in Old Tbilisi, that has one of the best beers in the Caucasus. Having a glass of unfiltered, golden colored heaven was just what I needed. We also had a half a liter of Saperavi wine between the three of us. Wine culture in Georgia dates back eight thousand years and one must have wine when you sit down to have a meal. It spirit of this tradition, I’ve gotten for myself several drinking horns, made of cow and ram horn, with silver embroider. The perfect gifts from Georgia, wine and a horn to drink it from. On the way back to the hostel, we saw the Assumption of the Blessed Mary Roman Catholic Church, an unexpected thing to see, as I’ve never seen a Catholic Church in this part of the world before.

On the 6th of May we when traveled to the city of Sighnaghi. This is a town in Georgia’s easternmost highlands in the Kakheti region and is one of the most popular tourist destinations due it its location in the heart of Georgia’s wine country. Diogo, Jeanne and I met up with our friends Alizee, Florane, Molly, and Maddy (who were meeting us during their return from their own visit in Armenia) at one of bus stations (having several changes in departure as we needed to find the right station to leave from Tbilisi to Sighnaghi). The morshotka wasn’t to expansive for our 2 two hour drive, get the vehicle was packed with people. I wanted to see the scenery on the way, but I wasn’t able to. The view when we arrived however, made up for it. The town is located on a very steep hill/mountain (it’s 2,743 feet up) that overlooks the vast Alazani Valley, with the Greater Caucasus Mountains visible at a distance. The view was fantastic. I heard of Sighnaghi through watching a documentary on cultural sites in Georgia a few months back when I was doing research for our trip. I was sold when I learned that the area is famous for its wine making. The town was settled as a series of vineyards and gradually developed into a town during the 18th century, King Heraclius II sponsoring the construction of the town as well as a fortress to defend the area from raids by tribesmen from modern Dagestan. We toured several churches during a day all stay, including the Church of Saint George and Saint Stephen’s Church. We took some really nice group photos within the bell towers of Saint Stephen’s, another great vantage point to see the Georgian country side. The best part of our visit was going to the winery and restaurant, Pheasant’s Tears. I had read about them online and emailed them for a evening of wine tasting and to experience a Georgian supera, or “feast.” We had four different types of wine, and five courses.

From left to right: Maddy, Molly. Jeanne, Diogo, Alizee and Florane.

We started our first course with an assortment of Georgian cheeses. We had some thick pieces of Imeruli cheese (a salty cheese that reminded me a lot of Kabardian or Adyghe cheese), some Nadugi cheese (somewhat like a garlic chive) and qarkhnuli, a cheese with the consistence of yogurt. The wine paired with this course was called Chinuri, (a dry white wine). We then began our second course with a wide variety of vegetable dishes. Maddy was in heaven, saying that the dinner was “one of the top ten meals I’ve had in my life,” a sentiment to which I then toasted to. I played tamador (in Georgian culture, a person who gives toasts for family, friends etc. between courses) that night. We had ispanaskhi matsvnit, a salad dish comprised for cooked and minced spinach mixed with yogurt, garlic and cilantro (oh, how I love cilantro), along with several other salads and “Georgian style” baklajon (a grilled eggplant dish). We had another white wine paired with this course called Mtsvane (a dry white with a fruity favor). Our third course was chicken tabaka, a dish cooked by pan frying the meat. It was very well seasoned with paprika, garlic and cilantro, making it one of the best tasting meals that I’ve had in the Caucasus. The wine that was paired with meal was a Saperavi (the most famous red wine and grape in used in Georgian wine making). Another plate was served, featuring home-style potatoes with tkemali (a plum sauce). The fourth course was a full pie of Imeretian khachapuri. Our final course was a pork mtsvadi (similar to North Caucasus shashlik). The last wine pairing was a delicious glass of Tavkveri (a semi-sweet red, with a fantastic floral bouquet).

Pheasant’s Tears ferment their own products and grew their own grapes for the wine that produce (the vegetables served during our supra where also grown locally from the groups of the winery/restaurant). All the wine we tasted was from Pheasant’s Tears, in the fashion of the Kakheti region and through the traditional process of using the kvervri clay jars, which have been listed on UNESCO’s “Intangible Cultural Heritage Lists.” I cannot stress enough the importance of Georgian viticulture in our world today. For the last 8,000 thousand years, the peoples living in the regions of Kakheti, Telavi, Kvareli (Eastern Georgia) have perfected their fermentation processes using kvevris to store and wine for aging, the interior of the clay lined with bee’s wax. There are several varieties of grapes that are native to Georgia, including the Saperavi, Alexandrouli, Mudzhuretuli, Tsitska and Tsolikauri. The natural springs and rivers in the Caucasus Mountains drain mineral-rich water into the valleys where the vineyards are located. Georgia’s moderate climate and moist air (influenced by the Black Sea), provide the prefect conditions for vine cultivating. The soil in Georgian vineyards is so intensively cultivated that the grape wines grow up the trunks of fruit trees eventually hanging down the fruit then they ripen. This method is of cultivation is called maglari in Georgian. Having a supra at this place was an incredible experience that I will never forget and sharing it with friends was even better. Our enjoyable day had one speed dump, getting back to Tbilisi. All of the marshotkas stopped driving between the two cities at 6 o’clock in the evening, so we needed to find a taxi. Of course this late at night, the prices were expansive and after an hour of waiting and negotiation (as it rained), we finally gave in took two separate taxis, Diogo, Jeanne and I in one taxi, and Molly, Maddy, Alizee and Florane took another, as we lived in separate hostels.

The view of the Alazani Valley from Sighnaghi.

During our final days in Tbilisi, I then went on museum touring. I first visited the Georgian National Museum. This is a great museum, as it has four different sections including: Prehistory, the Archeological Treasury, the Museum of Soviet Occupation, and the Oriental Arts Exhibit. These exhibits cover Georgian history in a manageable way and chronologically, covering a wide varieties of evens, culture, and art. I first saw the exhibit to prehistory, so I come get a better understanding region by going to the beginning. This period in Georgian history is amazing, as the discoveries during the excavations at the Dmanisi site (in the south-eastern part of the country) during the last 40 years have enlightened our knowledge about the evolution of our species. Fossils that date back to 1.8 million years ago point that early humans traveled from the African continent earlier than previous thought, Homo erectus georgicus being the earliest hominid ever discovered in Europe. Fossils of mammoths, saber-tooth cats, and other prehistory animals were also on display. My next stop was at the Archeological Treasury, this as an fantastic part of the museum. The exhibit displays coins, jewelry, weapons etc. from the 13th century BC to the 18th century. The period called the Colchis Era is very interesting, as it details the cross cultural links in art, metallurgy, and in mythology between the Hellenic World (Ancient Greece) and the Colchis Kingdom (Western Georgia). This kingdom of Colchis existed from the 6th century to the 1st centuries BC and is regarded as the first “Georgian state,” a collection of Kartvelian tribes such as the Mingrelians, Lazs, and Chans who populated Georgia’s Black Sea coast. The ancient Greeks knew of Colchis and it featured in the legend of Jason and the Argonauts, in the the search for the Golden Fleece. Between the 653 and 333 BC, Colchis culture was one of the most advanced in regards to it’s knowledge in crafting gold into jewelry. One of the technics this culture developed for “panning” gold in rivers was “fleecing” it by taking a sheep skin and using it as a net, to catch the little pieces of gold, passing through the many waterways in the Caucasus. This could be the bases for the legend of the Golden Fleece, as the Greeks may have seen this process, the fleece looking gold when capturing lots of gold flakes. The craftsmanship of the jewelry, coins and only adornments was astonishing. Greek, Egyptian, Roman, Ottoman, Iranian and Russian coins were also displayed in a series of cases. Colchis religious artifacts were compared to Greek ones, showing similarities between both cultures, along with other examples including weapons, sculptures and even earrings. It was such as great feeling to have so much history at one’s figure tips (through separated by glass).

Colchis culture gold smithing of necklaces, rings, bracelets and earrings.

I then headed to the second floor of the museum to see the Museum of Soviet Occupation. If I only had three words to describe this exhibit, I’d quote the movie “The World’s End” and say it was “really, very, sad.” The museum was dark, I really got sense of oppression and dread just from the atmosphere. The museum covered the period of Georgia’s occupation by the Soviet Union from 1918 to 1991. 73 years of oppression, taxation, mass imprisonment and murder the Georgian people. Photographs and documents from the various decades were displayed on the walls as well as lists upon lists of the names of priests, musicians, artists, writers, and nobles who were killed by the Bolshevik authorities during the occupation. From KGB records, the Soviet authorities killed 880,000 people between 1920 and 1947. I was brought to tears when reading the name of all the people. You felt the brutally the Communism brought, people killed because they disagreed and wanted to live in a free and independent state. Georgia declared its independence after the Bolsheviks overthrow the Russian Provisional Government and established the Union of Soviet Socialist Republics. The new nation of the Democratic Republic of Georgia was founded on May 26, 1918 and was recongnized by all major European powers at the time. The new nation had several struggles at its conception, most notably, protecting their borders from the advance of the Ottoman Empire and having territory disputes with their neighbor Armenia. In February of 1921, the Red Army invaded Georgia and occupied the country, the legitimate Georgian government forced to flee. A resistance movement then fought for three years to remove the Soviet blight from their lands, a large-scale uprising forming in August of 1924, led by Colonel Kakutsa Cholokashvili. This effort failed however, resulting in the mass executions and the Sovietization of Georgia. The country only breathed in three of freedom before once again being forced into a larger entity, an entity that an American President famously called “an evil Empire.” The 9th of May holiday for me was hard to celebrate this year, as I was reminded after the Soviet victory of the 70 years of oppression not only to Georgia but to Poland, the Baltic States, and most of Eastern Europe. As I’ve said before, reading about an event and seeing it in person (the artifacts in this case, documents, photographs etc.) are two different things. Seeing and touching history brings an emotional response and better context to the facts.

After crying for a while and drying my eyes, I headed to the third floor to see the Oriental Exhibition. This is a series of private collections donated by Georgian families of paints, artifacts and traditional dresses of Eastern cultures ranging from as close as Iran to as far as Japan. It museum hosts one of the largest collections of art from the Qajar dynasty of Persia (modern Iran, 1781-1925). This style of art shows a strong influence by European art technic in painting, in which heavy application of paint and large areas of flat, dark, rich and saturated colors predominate. Many of the works on display are from the artist Kamal ol-Molk (1845-1940), one of the first Persian artists to introduce Westerns styles into traditional Persian painting. There are also several pieces of Chinese jade vases from the Qing dynasty and a set of samurai armor from the mid-18th century, along with four katanas, one of which has a hilt and scabbard made from elephant ivory. Very beautifully crafted. I also had the opportunity to visit the Georgian National Gallery, that very same day. So, in essence I did an art splurge. The permanent exhibition at the National Gallery houses a unique collection of artwork in the second floor of the Dimitri Shevardnadze National Gallery, showcasing distinguished works by some of the most famous artists in Georgia, including from impressionists, Niko Purosmanshvili, David Kakabadze, Lado Gudiashvili and from sculptor Iakob Nikoaldze. These various works were fun to see it that you can really see the political and society changes in the era overlapping pre-Soviet and post-Soviet Georgia. On the first floor, their was an exhibition by contemporary Georgian artist Zurab Arabidze called F63.9, his work using mirrors and phrases in Georgian, such as “I love you” and “You can succeed at anything.” In the basement, there is an exhibition dedicated to the Jewish community in Tbilisi. It was wonderful to see all of the artwork and crafts made by Georgian Jews.

“Chilly Beer Stand,” by Niko Purosmanshvili.

On my last day in Tbilisi, I walked up the massive hill called Elia, in Tbilisi, to see Sameba Holy Trinity Cathedral. It was the last church on my list and I had to see it as it is the third-tallest Eastern Orthodox cathedral in the world and one of the largest religious buildings in the world in regards to total area, besides being the main church in Tbilisi. It was the first Sunday after Easter and I wanted to experience some of the service, so headed up the hill from the metro at Liberty Square and walked a long the banks west bank of the Kura River. As I walked up there I also get to see both the historic neighborhood of Avlabari and the Presidential Palace, the home of current Georgian President Giorgi Margvelashvili. When entering the ground of Sameba (meaning “the Trinity” in Georgian), there is a huge wall with gates and guards. I had my backpack searched and I was giving the “pat down” before entering the courtyard. A lot of military police and their families were on the grounds and I figured that the soldiers were praying and asking for blessing from Saint George. There is a beautiful, stone bell tower toward the left of the cathedral. I entered at 12 o’clock, so I got to hear the bells ring. The center of the courtyard has a stone walkway, flanked by pillars with carvings of different historical events related to the Georgian Orthodox Church. The cathedral is so tall, in of itself, regardless of being atop a hill (105 meters, 344 feet). You can see the cathedral from all part of Tbilisi. The cathedral’s construction was proclaimed on November 23, 2004, on Saint George’s Day and was consecrated by the Catholicos Patriarch of Georgia Ilia II and high-ranking representatives of fellow Orthodox Churches around the world. The interior of the cathedral is magnificent, and measures 56 meters (183 feet) by 44 meters (144 feet), with a square area of 2,380 meters (7,808 feet). The floor is made marble tiles and the altar is decorated with a lovely mosaic (but some of the altar is still under construction) and there are nine chapels dedicated to the Archangels, John the Baptist, Saint Nino, Saint George, Saint Nicholas, the Twelve Apostles and All Saints. The cathedral was packed with people. I gather about a 800 some people were there worshiping. At first it was very difficult to see what was going on, as we slowly were shuffling into the Sameba like penguins. It took a long time get to a point where I could squeeze out of the massive cluster and find salvation by an icon of Mother Mary. I observed some of the service, enjoying the polyphony singing. It was a great experience and made my last day in Tbilisi very memorable.

Spending the holidays in Georgia for ten days was a literal breath of fresh air, a breath of freedom. It was so good to gain new experiences in regards to culture, art, food and sites. My trip was also a spiritual journey for me, a pilgrimage of some of the holy sites of Georgia. I lit candles and prayed at every church and monastery that I visited, thanking the Lord of the blessings and people in my life. I’m so thankful to have had the opportunity to see this remarkable country again and really get into the feel of things, having a supra and sharing drink with my friends. Well, I hope that my record of Georgia has been interesting for you all. I have one more month in Russia and I hope to have a few more stories to tell before I leave. Cheers to you all, from Russia with regards.

Circassian Flag Day

On April 26, 2016 By de TuttlevilleLeave a comment

Well, my friends, spring has finally sprung. The blossoms on the trees are peeping though, their pinks and reds look very nice amongst a background of green leaves and grass. Returning to Pyatigorsk and to the Caucasus in general is a blessing, the farther north I go, the less comfortable I feel. I returned from Volgograd just in time to see the Russian group, БИ-2 at their concert in Kislovodsk, a small city about a thirty minutes train ride southwest of Pyatigorsk. It is a nice city and it was my first time visiting it. I’ll have to arrange a visit when the weather is warmer and make it day trip. I went to the concert with Alina, Max and Saidat and I also saw some members of my faculty there at the concert too. БИ-2 (or BE-2 in English), was formed in the 80’s in Minsk, Belarus (then apart of the Soviet Union) and is one of the most successful Russian rock groups in the of the past twenty years. They were doing their, “Greatest Hits” tour and it was delightful to see them in person and to see Alina and the other fans dance and sing to their songs. One of the few times I’ve seen ethnic Russians openly expressing emotion in a huge public setting. The group is very popular in both generation X and Y camps, a fusion of late-Communist and post-Communist eras. We all had a very good time and thankfully the weather held up (it had rained all day).

The weather after the concert however, has been warm and the sun has been shining brightly. There have been a few days of clear, blue skies and it is such a relief to have such beautiful weather to match such beautiful country. On one of these crystal clear mornings, I walked down the hallway to wash my clothes and saw Elbrus and the Caucasus range through the window. It was like seeing ivory colored teeth, touching the horizon. The snow has caped the mountains nicely, making it a very impressive view. No matter how many times I look upon these mountains, I always get a feeling of awe and excitement. I really need to make the time to travel and see Elbrus one of these days before I leave. I need to see the mountain up close, to see what Lermontov and the Circassians saw. Anytime I pick up a “Hero of Our Time,” I look at the book cover, the drawing of Grigory Alexandrovich Pechorin (the ultimate “Byronic Hero”) and his companion Maxim Maximyich, standing on a cliff, with Elbrus in the background. A scene I’d love to replicate.

It is no wonder that the flags of Kabardino-Balkaria and Karachey-Cherkessia have Elbrus as the center piece of their Republic’s flags. The beauty and majesty of this place is something that I will miss dearly when I leave in June. I’m already preparing to go home, packing a few things here and there, but there is still plenty of time to relish revising old places and enjoy touring new ones. Of course there are classes in-between and it has been very interesting getting back into the swing of a daily schedule of classes, when one is gone for three weeks. Model UN, Astrakhan and Volgograd were nice breaks and it is good to see places in Russia which are outside of the Caucasus, but I feel much better being back. It is better to be surrounded by mountains, green, good food, and lezginka. It is very interesting being a cultural representative for both the United States and Circassia while traveling north of the Caucasus. It was very surprising to know that most Russians north of Stavropol Krai know little to nothing of the region or it’s many peoples.

Being called “American Cherkess” and “dzhigit” (although I still need to perform riding on horse at a gallup, picking up objects from the ground while doing acrobatic-like tasks, or in short, dzhigitovka) by both friends and faculty here at Pyatigorsk and elsewhere, is a treat and it makes one think you’re doing something right. It is it an honor to be trusted in such a way. I got many compliments from people at the Volgograd UN Model for my interest in Circassian culture and for my wanting to participate in cultural activities (especially after dancing lezginka at the dance there). Speaking of culture, the university hosts annually a Day of Nationalities at the end of April. This institution as set up to encourage understanding and knowledge about the various ethnic groups who makeup the community here at Pyatigorsk. During my first year here, it was a marvelous experience. The whole of the lobby at the university was packed full of tables, each one having a group of students representing their ethnic groups cuisine, culture and dance. Every ethnic group, from Cossack to Ukrainian, Chechen to Kabardian, as well as some of the foreign nations including Chinese, German, Polish and Georgian had a table, filled with food, flags on the corners and individuals wearing their national regalia. I was in heaven. I went to every table, eating, talking with and observing each nation. It took around two hours to get through them all and I was so fat afterward from eating all the food. I then needed a rest. Thankfully, after the buffet of nations, there is a Nationalities Concert that allows each nation to perform their traditional dance or dances. It is quite the spectacle.

This time around, I was serving a table. Andrew, his wife, Kristi and I had the opportunity to represent America, specifically the South, as we are all originally Southerns. We spent most of Thursday evening cooking food for the event. We had a lot to cook, but thankfully we also had many helpers (13 people in one kitchen, yikes). A big thanks to Alizee and Florane for helping us. It is wonderful to have Belgians, Russians, Turks and Nigerians help cook an “American feast.” In my opinion, it personifies Americanism and makes me recall my nations motto, E pluribus unum, “Out of Many, One.” The menu as I said above was very Southern. We made separated into groups to make the cooking more manageable. I was responsible for preparing the baked beans. Nothing too fancy, just seven cans of beans, tomato sauce, two onions, garlic, spicy mustard, paprika, a cup of sugar, and a squeeze of hot sauce to literally “spice things up.” The others made: pulled BBQ chicken, potato salad, coleslaw (this is painful trying to explain in Russian), and sweet tea. It all reminds me of humid summer evenings, with the June bugs flying into everything and the cold glasses of sweet tea and lemonade “sweating” it out in the heat. Kristi is also baking a chocolate cake and she made butter cream frosting. Cakes in the rest of the world are a joke compared to a good, old American style cake. I’m apologize to my foreign readers, but for me, American cakes are second to none. The cake itself is so moist and dense, and the frosting is the best, none of that whipped cream or flan shenanigans. I’m not saying that European cakes aren’t tasty or good, I’m just saying I prefer American cakes over them. I had a funny comment to me, while cooking the beans. A Russian girl was watching me and cook and said in English, “Do you eat that?” I responded by saying, “Why would I cook this for Day of Nationalities if you couldn’t eat it?” I guess beans are not a thing in Russia.

Nationalities Day was a lot of fun. It was just and great to serve food and represent my own nation as it is sampling all the food of others. We showed out dress in flannel shirts (in red, white and blue) and jeans. I also had my United States t-shirt that says, “Established in 1776.” We had a lot of turn out for our table. We took turns serving and holding the American flag (as there was no wall or pole to hang it on). I showed a few Russians the tradition of folding the flag and how to hold it when folded. They thought it was cool that America had this tradition of respect for the flag and a unique way to fold it. I know it’s something I love about my own culture. Across from us was the Russian table, so it was nice have so friendly competition. Poland and Germany flanked us, so it was a “NATO zone.” I hope the Russians missed out on the irony. I held the flag at the beginning, taking part in two interviews for the universities student media. I answered questions concerning what we cooked and that it was all traditional Southern style cooking. One the of students commented, that she was, “I’m surprised not to see McDonalds.” I replied by saying that I was, “sorry to disappoint, but there’s one across the street.” Her comment left a bitter taste in my mouth, but I was glad that we we’re living up to stereotypes. It was great to see the Russian students branch out and try new things, but with some encouragement. They loved the BBQ chicken, but at first didn’t know what to make of it, the same thing with the beans. The potato salad was popular, as the Russians have something similar, so the less adventurous individuals ate that. The chocolate cake was by far the most popular and disappeared quickly. Kristi made two of them and still within 45 minutes, both were gone. Our faculty was very happy that we did this, as the our faculty was also in charge of representing Poland and Russia. Marta (the Polish girl, who teaches Polish in our faculty) had a wonderful table and had her students helped serve. I liked the Polish dish with apples, salmon and sour cream, an interesting mix of favors. On my “break” I ventured to other tables and got food from the Georgians, Greeks, Azeris, Kabardians, Chechens, and Polish. I also had a little of the Chinese food, but they wanted people to pay, so that was a disappointment. We gave out food for free, but expected donations. By doing this, the kind nature of the Russians and Caucasians worked in our favor and we received more funds (to pay for the expense for the food). I had a lot of fun, as Nationalities Day is one of my favorites festivals at the university. To my knowledge, this is the first time America has had a table at Nationalities Day, so it was an honor and a new experience to serve food at the event.

On Sunday, Vika and Alina invited me to join them at a church service. As some of you may know, the Orthodox faiths (Russian, Greek, Serbian, etc.) follow the older calendar so the religious holidays are few days or even weeks apart in some cases. Last Sunday as Palm Sunday or in Russian, “Willow Sunday,” as they use the willow branches as opposed to palm furans as palm trees are a rarity in Russia (though there are palm trees on the coasts of Krasnodar Krai, Yalta, Abkhazia, and Georgia). Before we entered the church in downtown Pyatigorsk, the girls bought a few willow branches and candles. We then crossed ourselves and entered, people buzzing about the insides of the church. It seemed very disorganized at the start, as there are no pews. One stands for the whole three hour service. In a typical Russian Orthodox Church, there is an open center, with pillars supporting the structure and the domes or cupolas. On the walls of the church are icons to various Saints, including George, Andrew etc. in front of this hand painted icons are places to put candles. A tradition is to place a candle for the patron Saint and make a prayer. As an example, Saint George (the patron Saint of England, Russia and Georgia) is the patron Saint of soldiers. If one wants to pray for a soldier, one simply puts a candle at Saint George’s stand and pray. I give a candle to Mother Mary and prayed. Very important Saints such as Mary, Matthew, Mark, Luke and John, are on the Iconostasis or a “the door way between Heaven and Earth,” “the wall separating the divine from the secular.” In the Russian Orthodox Church, there is a wall separating the parish from the parishioners, symboling the divine between God and humanity. It is a sobering symbol, and reflect Russian cultural norms (the collective and authoritative native of Russian society). The priest is the main authority and from what I observed, there is little participation by the parish, only crossing one’s self (similar to the Catholic and Episcopal bowing) and bowing when the priest sings a phrase, praising God. All of the litany is sung in Old Church Slavonic, but I my surprise, I understood a lot. The Nicene Creed is the same as is the blessing of the bread and wine during Communion. It’s nice to see familiar symbols seven thousand miles away. The willow branches were used to sprinkle holy water on the people by the priest (they also wear a kind of papakha, that has a purple cape, I love the Caucasus), it was cool, and it is an interesting difference, as we burn the palm furans on Ash Wednesday.

Continuing this theme of culture, I also had the opportunity to experience and participate in Circassian Flag Day in Nalchik. Annually, the Republic of Kabardino-Balkaria, hosts a rally to celebrate the national flag of the Circassian Nation on the 25th of April. Circassian Diaspora from all over the world also partake in the celebrations by doing their home rallies, posting photos online of the flag and doing cultural activities such as dancing and cooking traditional foods. The large Circassian communities in Jordan, Israel, and Turkey have made a huge Facebook community for the event, asking people to change their profile pictures or cover photos to the Circassian flag titled, “Make It Green” in English and Arabic. So, I changed my cover photo for the day, and headed with Maddy to Nalchik. Alas, Anna could not attend the event, as she had an exam that afternoon. I know however, she was with us in spirit. Trying to arrange meeting with my friends in Nalchik was a nightmare. Elberd was working as crowd control that morning and from most of the afternoon, but he agreed to meet us at 5 o’clock in the evening at Abkhazia Square. Meeting with Jan and his friends as a little more problematic, as they had classes and wouldn’t be free until in the mid-afternoon. With is disorganization, we “punted” and headed to “Circassian House,” the shop that sells Circassian cultural items and apparel. It was good to see the Nastya, one of the employees that works there. I said hello, with I walked in and she greeted me with a smile and responded in informal speech, which I was taken aback by, but I guess when you visit the shop every time you go to Nalchik, and are I good patron, you can get friendly. I needed to pick up a new kindjhal (a short sword or dagger that is worn on the belt, it mean in Adyghe, “short knife.”), as one can’t wear a cherkesska without the blade. I bought a smaller, ceremonial one when I first visited Dombai, but I left it back in Nebraska, as I feared customs leaving the U.S. or entering Russia would nab it. So, now I have a full, “battle” version of the blade.

Nastya was so excited (maybe more so than I), as she help me put on the cherkesska on, adjusting the belt here and the kindjhal there, making sure I looked my best in the “clothes the fit you.” The scabbard of the blade is the same shade of red as the scabbard of my shashka, making it a perfect match to the red trim of my cherkesska. I looked the part, boots, papakha and all. Nastya then took a few photos of me in forward of the shop, as did Maddy and we then presided to walk the streets of Nalchik. While in “Circassian House,” Maddy got a magnet for our friend, Molly and we also got a PPC pipeline, about a meter and a half in length, which we used as a pole of the flag. I got in free of change, which was very nice and I handed Maddy a white version of a Adige flag t-shirt that I had bought with me. She looked the part as well. Walking through Nalchik was an interesting experience. People who walked by were taking photos and videos of us and asking to take photos with me. I felt a prop, and now I understand how Diogo feels when walking on the streets of any Russian city. People also asked us, “What holiday is it?” or “why are you all dressed up.” We were shocked. The fact that people didn’t know what was going on, after this festival happens every year, (later on, Elberd informed me that the Circassian Flag Day festival as not an official holiday in Kabardino-Balkaria, as opposed to the Anniversary of the Deportations and has only been going on since 2010) and with all the Circassian flags flying around, I would have thought someone would have taken a hint. We wee told by some fellow “flaggers,” that some if the people who asked “What holiday is it?” may have been Balkarians (the Turkic speaking ethnic group that is the minority in Kabardino-Balkaria), who were making fun of us and “pulling our leg.” At any rate, we didn’t let in bother us and we continued walking to “White House Square” and around the “400th Anniversary of the Union Square,” displaying the flag.

The Circassian flag has a rich history and meaning, and as I recall, I’ve mentioned some of the specifics in a pervious blog. The flag is the official flag of the Republic of Adygea (adopted in 1992), but is also used and shared by the all Circassians living in Kabardino-Balkaria and Karachey-Cherkessia (as well as by diaspora over seas). The flag isn’t new though, as it was first drafted (allegedly) by Scottish scholar and British statesmen, David Urquhart. The original flag was designed in 1834 and only had seven stars, being flown by the Circassian Nation during the war with the Russian Empire (1763-1864). The golden arrows on this flag are said to represent the political and military union of Georgia, Armenia and Azerbaijan, the stars then symbolizing the alliance of the Circassian tribes (this is according to French scholar Pierre Charles Lux-Wurm, though I question, this as Azerbaijan during the 1830’s, was not an independent entity, being ruled by the Russians after the Russo-Persian War of 1826-1828 and formalized during the Treaty of Turkmenchay). The golden color of the twelve stars and third arrows, represents the rich soil and harvests that the Caucasus provide for the Adyghe people. The current flag’s symbolism was developed by the North Caucasian League during the 1940’s and has twelve golden stars, nine of which stand of the aristocratic or feudal roots of the tribes, whereas the bottom three stars stand for the democratic elements within these specific tribes. The three crossed arrow represent peace and strength and the background is green, representing both Islam and the natural beauty of the Caucasus. It should be known that the color of the flag is in fact aquamarine green, a dark bluish green, as opposed to a light or medium green. According to the laws adopted on the flag on March, 31st of 1992, this is the official color. Activists such as Nikolay Khimenkov have spoken out against the making and selling of flags with “incorrect” color schemes and even went so far as to write to the various companies that make said flags to correct their mistakes. My friend Elberd, made a point of these when we were buying my flag from “Circassian House” in Nalchik, back in November. Though I’ve seen many flags of the light or medium green variety fly in both Nalchik and Maikop. Thankfully, my flag is up is snuff.

An interesting note on the flag, historically the various Circassian tribes within the confederation were also made up of other Caucasian ethnicities including Nogay, Ossetians, Balkars, Karachey, Ingush and Chechens. In the 19th century, three of the twelve tribes replaced their feudal systems (many of the tribes ruled themselves in federal, tribal based confederacies that had set territories and were autonomous from one another, functioning together in times of conflict and regional administration) with that of direct democracies (some scholars such as Tony Wood, argue that these tribes borrowed this system from the neighboring Chechens), but this was short lived after the Russians conquered Circassia in 1864, ended their independence. Another fun fact is there is a second flag of Cherkess origin (Circassians living in Karachey-Cherkessia) and that of diaspora. This flag is identical to the Adyghe flag except for a yellow background and orangish-red stars and arrows. In regard to way it is different, I honestly have no idea. Elberd, made the comment that is was “very strange, I think they don’t know what they’re doing.”

At around 12 o’clock in the afternoon, the motor rally started driving around on the main streets on Nalchik. We figured if we followed the cars with the Circassian flags displayed either on, or within them, we’ed find the start of the rally. Just by fate, good timing and luck, we ran into them, an impressive looking Kabardian man, dressing in a red cherkesska, rode on an equally impressive looking Kabard horse. With the reins in one hand a big Circassian flag in the other, he shouted, “Adige Wei Wei (loosely translated, meaning “ to Circassian success,” or “Long live, Circassia”). He galloped down the street, to police cars followed suit, blocking the road from traffic and made 40 to 50 cars followed behind. The cars had three or four people in them, holding Circassian flags outside of the passenger windows, some of the men even sat on the space where the widow would have been, their torso and upper body, sticking out. I quickly crossed the street with in was safe and waved my flag left and right, shouting “Adige Wei Wei,” the men in the cars, honked the horns of their cars, gave thumbs up signs, smiled and yelled in either Russian or Kabardian. Some even took photos of me when their cars stopped at the crosswalk. I was beaming with excitement, as I was participating in the Circassian Flag Day rally. Maddy took a ton of photos of the cars passing by and it was cool to see so many people turn out just for the motor rally. Maddy and I then headed to the park in Nalchik, to see if anything was going now there and to also take advantage of the gorgeous weather. The sun was shinning bright and warm, the wind, a gentle breeze that made the flag I was carrying came to life.

After a nice about the park, we got hungry and head to “Amal`e” restaurant, a nice place the serves traditional Kabardian and Caucasian dishes. Whenever I’m in Nalchik, I order traditional Circassian cuisine, so I had an order of psihekive melt delhu, (Circassian monti or meat dumplings with sour cream) and ligor with ships and p`asta (ligor, is sun dried strips of beef, like jerky, ships is seasoned, white cream sauce, and p`asta is made of husked millet, which is shaped into thick, regular blocks). You traditionally, eat this dish by putting the ligor and the ships on top of the p`asta, softening it and letting the sauce absorb into it. Maddy had khichiney with cheese and a Russian salad of some variety. To my surprise, Maddy had never had it khichiney before, so it was nice to a witness to a “first.” Of course we shared some lakum as well, one can’t go have a meal anywhere in with Republic without having a basket filled to the top with lakum. It was a nice meal, and I now have practice eating food while in full cherkesska. It was interesting, with all the belts and blades on my person, but it is nice that the cherkesska is comfortable, breathes well and isn’t very heavy. We then left the restaurant with full tummies and continued on our marry way to Abkhazia Square. There however, was confusion as who, where and when we were meeting. After talking to several Nalchik natives and playing telephone tag with Elberd, Anna, Jan and friends, we finally managed to get things straight. I was disappointed that in the chaos, we lose time to see Jan and his friends perform at the local university that they study at. It would have been great to see and listen to them play traditional Kabardian instruments, such as the: shik`epshine (a thin, stringed instrument), qamalapsh, (a Circassian, made from dried water reeds), apa phsina (a three stringed lute), pxachach (two sets of wooden blocks that are held by hand and struck together to indicate the beat of the song), drums (dhol, in Kabardian), and the pshina (an accordion). Apparently, Jan’s friends can play this instruments and they both played at the university and at the festival on Abkhazia Square that evening.

When Maddy and I arrived on Abkhazia Square, we were some of the first people there. As we wanted for the festivities to begin at 6 o’clock, I was again asked for photos by at least twenty people, even the police wanted photos with me. It was odd at times because they’ed come up and ask first in Kabardian (a language I’d love to learn, but is very different, with a complex grammar structure and a alphabet of 53 characters, of which exist only three vowels) and then in Russian when I told them what I didn’t speak Kabardian. I probably would have made over a thousand rubles that day, if I changed just a hundred for each photo, but it is a holiday, no need to be greedy. After a little while, Jan and his buddies showed up and we chatted, took photos with each other and the Circassian flag. As the sun started to set, Elberd when walked over to us and we embraced. I was so happy to see him, my Kabardian brother. I told me he was held up at the motor rally, making sure all the cars and horses, had a place to be without interfering with the crowd of over 700 to 800 that slowly gathered in the square. The procession was led by three, brilliantly dressed men in green, red and grey, cherkesska. The horses were very nervous from all the people, whining and stamping their hoofs on the pavement, making a “chip chop” sound. The men on horseback, quickly got the horses out of the square, walking them near where I was standing with Elberd, Jan, Maddy and the others. I was so close to them that I could see their horses wild eyes and the stubble on the riders faces. I moved out of the way, to keep my distance from them. The procession then gathered in a large mass, the master of ceremonies, the musicians, the elders and famous individuals such as the Director of the International Circassian Association (ICA), sat on an elevated set of platforms.

Circassian Flag Day is also celebrated in the Republic of Adygea (and to a lesser extent in Cherkessk, Karachey-Cherkessia), in the capital of Maikop, a city of ancient origins, which is said by some scholars to be the birthplace of Maikop culture (the root of all Greater Circassian cultures, including that of the Kabardians). The events in Maikop are similar to those that are held in Nalchik, with an automobile rally that is sanctioned by the city administration. Dance contests are also held. Last year the famous group “Adyghe Djegu” performed at the celebrations. Some, 1,700 residents of Maikop take part in the festivities each year and the usually Aslan Djarimove, (Adygea’s first president) attends the rallies (according to the news paper Caucasian Knot). He played an important role in the adoption of the flag as the Adygea’s national flag. Other pan-national figures may so attend the event, including Arthur Bagadirov, the chairman of the “Youth Wing” within the “Adyge Khase-Circassian Parliament,” as well as Adam Bogus (the chariman of the adult movement). At our festival in Nalchik, we had a few famous singers perform songs in both Russians and Kabardian. I was hoping to see the Kabardian artist, Azamat Bishtov there, singing “Circassian Flag,” but alas he wasn’t to my knowledge there. I stood in the back at the beginning, to talk with Elberd, the others heading to the front for the stage. We discussed a lot of the ceremonies agenda, and switched to politics and our families. We got a lot of catching up done. I then headed to the large circle that was being formed around the master of ceremonies, a tall Kabardian man, wearing red cherkessak and a tall, black papakha (he certainly looked the part). He had in his hand, a wooden stick, about a foot long, which was decorated with red tassels and he would point to a man to indicate that it was his turn to dance Kafa (the opening traditional dance between a pair of men and women, that we started the festival with). The men and the women were separated from one another, a female master of ceremonies, indicating to the women, when they could dance. She wore a beautiful, white traditional dress. Little children of about four to five years of age danced first, they looked so cute. I also had the opportunity to dance and it was a good experience both for practice and to partake in such a traditional and lovely celebration of culture.

Both Nalchik and Maikop, put on a very remarkable show during the celebrations and I wish I had the opportunity to see the festivities in Maikop in person, but alas, it’s a seven hour bus ride from Pyatigorsk. Nalchik is only an hour away, so it is easier to travel back and forth. Having been to Maikop in May of two years ago however, for the Victory Day holiday, I’ve seen the city and it would be nice to see a Circassian celebrations here. Perhaps I’ll go to Maikop for the 151st anniversary of the deportation (or genocide as some scholars and Circassian nationalism write), but we’ll see. I think going to Nalchik will be cheaper and Anna, Jan and Elberd will be there. Well, that’s all folks, I wish you all very well. Thanks for reading and keep an eye out for I next blog, about my trip to Georgia. From Russia with regards, Adige Wei Wei.

Model UN 2.0 and Volgograd

On April 12, 2016 By de TuttlevilleLeave a comment

Hello dear readers. This blog will detail my travels to the city on the Volga, better known by its Soviet name Stalingrad. Diogo and I were invited to attend Volgograd State University’s Model United Nations conference by their head delegate Angelina Pivovarova (love that her last name means “brewer”). Angelina is a very nice girl and Diogo and I made friends will her very quickly while she was with us in Pyatigorsk for our Model UN. We were so lucky to be invited to their conference. It was interesting to learn that Volgograd State University’s Model UN is totally run by the students, making it a very nice event to both mingle and work. Diogo and I bought a train ticket to Volgograd and “enjoyed” the 18 hour ride to the city from Pyatigorsk (as a side note, I would say that the ride was a mix between the comfort of the sitting in a movie theater and the discomfort of an Amtrak train in the U.S.).

When we arrived in Volgograd, we got to see the famous Volgograd Train Station, with it’s “lovely” Soviet Era architecture. To be very honest, Volgograd isn’t the prettiest city. During the War, the city was completely destroyed and thereof needed to be rebuilt. Volgograd personifies post-Modernist and Soviet style building, making it grey and very Communist. This being said, the city has very impressive monuments to the Second World War. The events of the war decided the fate of the city and it is a physical representation of the historical memory that the Russians have concerning the War. It is both a blessing and a curse, a blessing in that it is a way to learn about the history of their nation, the War being a definitive moment for the Russian people (much like the Battle of Borodino). It is a curse because it seems like they can never “move on” from this event. One of my German peers at the conference, recalled while walking in the street, he was accosted by Russians. He was speaking German on his cell phone and passer by’s heard him. They said things, like “We won the War” and “Who’s the boss.” Thankfully, only some of the uneducated Russians would say these things. The students at the University were very accepting and my generation isn’t as “hung up” on the history of the War. This however, will never change as long as there are people who are still live who personally lost loved ones during the conflict. The Russian school system also ingrains the imagines and stories of the War into the youth, but in my opinion as long as people understand Germany isn’t like this now, it is ok. It is important to learn from your history and appreciate the sacrifice that you forebears gave, while planning for the future.

The memory of the War is still very fresh in many Russian’s minds. During my first stay in Russia, the film “Stalingrad” came out in theaters. It was the most expensive film ever made to date in Russia. I remember going to the film with my friend, Elberd. There is a scene in the movie about 15 minutes in, where Soviet troops are running up the west bank of the Volga. The Germans then blow up the oil reserves near the river, setting a blaze the embankment, alone with many of the Soviet soldiers. The surviving soldiers, run through the flames, and in patriotic zeal, overrun the German positions. The Russians in the theater yelled and cheered, “Die Fascists,” and “Go comrades.” IT really gave me a sense of how important this event in history is to Russians, let alone for the inhabits in Volgograd. The Battle of Stalingrad is one of the most famous battles fought during the Second World War or as the Russians call the conflict, the “Great Patriotic War.” It is marked by the constant close quarters combat, unstop air raids, the slaughter of civilians and is said to be by some scholars as the largest (nearly 2.2 million personal) and bloodiest (estimated between 1.7 to 3 million people killed or wounded both military and civilian) battle in human history. The losses inflicted on the German Wehrmacht make it arguably the most strategically decisive battle of the whole war and was the turning point on the Eastern Front as the German forces never regained the initiative in the East and withdrew a vast military force form the Western Front to replace their horrendous losses. Of the 77,000 German troops sent to fight in Stalingrad, only 3,000 some walked away, most as prisoners of war.

The German offensive to capture Stalingrad began on the late summer of 1942, the German 6th Army and elements of the 4th Panzer Army making up the bulk of their forces. The attack was supported by intensive carpet bombing of the city by the Luftwaffe and reduced Stalingrad to little but rubble. The German’s genocidal campaign on Russian civilians was for three purposes: the first to break Russian moral. The second being that Hitler hated the Slavs as much as he hated Jews. The Nazis left a bloody tail through Poland, into Ukraine and in much of Western Russia, looting and burning homes, hanging dissidents, and enslaving thousands of Slavs for “free” labor, many of them dying beside their Jewish peers in the camps. The third reason then being that the Nazi war machine needed the oil from the Caucasus and the Caspian Sea. Hitler is quoted saying that “If I do not get the oil in Maikop and Gronzy then I must liquidate this war.” It is said, that Hitler also wanted to break the Russian spirit through psychological means, by capturing “Stalin’s City” i.e. Stalingrad, the new industrial hub of the Soviet Union. This however, could be a Soviet tale, as German commanders are quoted saying that, “The capture of Stalingrad was subsidiary to the main aim. It was only of importance as a convenient place, in the bottleneck between Don and the Volga, where we could block an attack on our flank by Russian forces coming from the east. At the start, Stalingrad was no more then a name on a map to us.” – from Lloyd Clark’s Kursk: The Greatest Battle: The Eastern Front, 1943, 2011, page 157.

By mid-November of 1942, the Germans had pushed the Soviet defenders back, but at great cost, into narrow zones along of the west bank of the Volga River. On the 19th of November, the Red Army launched what was called Operation Uranus, a two-pronged attack targeting the weaker irregular forces of the German army, notably the Romanian and Hungarian forces protecting the German 6th Army’s flanks. It was interesting to learn at the Panorama Museum that so many ethnicities were recognized on both sides in the battle. The museum has an exhibit displaying the flags of Soviet regiments from the then Kazakh A.S.S.R., Korea, Vietnam (then French Indo-China), China, Japan, Poland and Czechoslovakia. The famous Soviet Field Marshal Georgi Zhukov, was responsible for much of the strategic planning in the Stalingrad region and is honored with many statues and memorials around the city. He is even buried on the grounds of Mamayev Kurgan. Operation Uranus was made in conjunction with Operation Mars, which directed attacks on the German center, engaging their forces on three fronts. The Soviet 1st Guards, the 5th Tank Army and the 21st Army led these assaults with support from the 18th infantry divisions, the 8th tank brigades, and the 6th cavalry. Thinly spread, deployed in exposed positions and poorly equipped for the harsh Russian winter, the Romanian 3rd Army and the German 6th Army was when surrounded and later overrun. The battle lasted for five months, one week and three days.

The fighting in Stalingrad was furious. German military doctrine was based on the idea of “combined-arms teams,” meaning cooperation between tank units, infantry, engineers, artillery and aerial bombardment. The Soviet commanders countered these tactics by always keeping their front-line positions as close to the Germans as possible, making aerial bombardment impossible unless the Germans wished to drop bombs on their own men (which sometimes happened). The Soviets called this “hugging” and it resulted in slowing the advance of German troops and made the infamous blitzkrieg useless. The Red Army held their ground as long as possible (enforcing this by keeping soldiers armed with sub-machines within the doorways of structures to shoot their own peers if they abandoned their posts out of cowardice), converting multi-floored apartment blocks, factories, warehouses, street corner residences and office buildings into a serious of defendable strongpoints of 5 to 10 man units. When a position was lost, an immediate attempt was made to re-take it with fresh forces. Bitter fighting raged for every ruin, street, factory, house, basement and staircase, some men fighting with their hands or bricks. The Germans called this Rattenkrieg or “Rat War,” as urban warfare of this scale was never seen before.

Some major points in the battle were on Mamayev Kurgan (or Mamayev Hill in English), a prominent hill above of the city. The fighting here was particularly brutal and merciless, as soldiers had to charge up the steep terrane and face an onslaught of bullets from machine guns. Ownership of the hill changed many times over the course of the battle. In another part of the city, a Soviet platoon under of command of Sergeant Yakov Pavlov, fortified a four-story building that oversaw a street near the west bank of the Volga River. The remains of this structure would later be called “Pavlov’s House.” The soldiers surrounded the building with mines and set up machine gun positions at the windows and breached the walls in the basement for better communications. The soldiers held their position for two mouths, without significant relief or reinforcement. The Germans called the building Festung or “Fortress.” The building was never taking by Nazi forces and Sergeant Pavlov was awarded the Medal of The Hero of the Soviet Union for his actions in defense of the city. The building still stands to this day, reminding the Russian people of the struggle. It has been labeled by the Russian government was a “Cultural Heritage Site.”

The legends of various snipers are also very important to Stalingrad lore and several films (notably, “Enemy at the Gates,” 2001 and “Stalingrad,” 1973) and video games (notably, “Call of Duty” and “Medal of Honor: European Assault”) have retold these various stories, highlighting the importance of the sniper and his or her role in the battle. In the the video game “Call of Duty,” the player fellows the story-line of a female-Soviet sniper during the Stalingrad campaign and personifies snipers such as Lydumila Pavlichenko, who is crediting with 309 kills and is regarded as the most successful female sniper in history. Snipers on both sides used the ruins of the city to hind, waiting for the right moment to inflict as many casualties as possible. The most famous Soviet sniper in Stalingrad was Captain Vasily Zaitsev, who is credited with 225 confirmed kills. Rumor has it what he and a German sniper, coined by the name of “Major Erwin König (another name of this same sniper was Heinz Thorvald),” were locked in an epic contest that has been immortalized in numerous novels and films. In his autobiography, “Notes of a Russian Sniper,” Zaitsev describes how he carefully studied the battlefield until he finally baited a trap for König.

“Kulikov fires off a blind shot. We have to arouse the sniper’s interest. We decide to sit out the first half of the day; light reflecting from the scopes could give us away. In the afternoon our rifles are in the shade while the direct light of the sun falls upon the German’s position. Something sparkles by the edge of the sheet. Is this a piece of glass that just happens to be there, or is the telescopic sight of a sniper’s rifle? Very carefully, as only the most experienced sniper would do, Kulikov starts to raise a helmet. The German fires. Kulikov raises himself for a brief moment, shouts loudly and falls. The German sticks half of his head out from under the sheet. I fire. The German’s head sinks, and the optical sight of his rifle sparkles in the sunlight.” – Notes of a Russian Sniper, Vasliy Zaitsev.

Although this is a great story and undoubtably there were snipers fighting during the battle, it is just a legend. According to British historian Frank Ellis in his book, The Stalingrad Cauldron (2013), there is no record of a “master sniper” named König within the German military achieves. Zaitsev did indeed shot a sniper that day, not it is unlikely that this epic dual ever took place. However, this should not diminish the importance of the Soviet snipers as they were used often during the battle and there are many records of such encounters. German records are subsequently, filled with complaints from both soldiers and officers about moving out of their trenches only to risk their lives to sniper fire; Soviet snipers emphasizing the targeting for offices and working their way down the ranks. The various museums in the city display a lot of this information and it was so cool to be in a city that I had read and heard so much about.

After arrived at the train station, we waiting for my friend Pierre to pick us up. Pierre is a friend of mine from my first year in Pyatigorsk. He current lives in Volgograd, working as a teacher of French at one of the smaller universities in the city. It was so good to see him. I had missed our long conversations together about France and America, as well as about political happenings in the world. All of these would happen with glasses of beer. Pierre is from the Britney region in France and they have a huge beer culture there. We visited several bars and pubs while in the city and I tried a few Belgium and French brews that Pierre recommended to me. There as an interesting and taste Belgium brew called “Kwak” and it was served in strange, hour-glass like shape with a narrow neck and a ball-bus bottom. The “Kwak” has a wonderful favorite, with a very strong, fruity finish. I had this beer at “Alyaska Bar,” a popular pub in Volgograd. It was like a “Hipster Bar” in a way, as the bar keeps both had thick, bushy beards, wore thick glasses and bow ties. The beer was good and the prices were reasonable for foreign brews.

Pierre also showed us a few monuments in the city, notably Mamayev Kurgan. At the base of the hill (kurgan) there is a series of stairs letting up to a plateau of stone that has a huge sculpture of Soviet soldier, with a defiant expression on this face, holding a PPsh-41 (a Soviet sub-machine gun). He is shirtless and he build personifies the “prefect Soviet-man.” A fountain surrounds him like a moat and would be working when the weather gets warmer. Past our noble soldier, we then headed up a another series of stairs to another sculpture. It was split into two parts, flanking either side of the stairway and depicted Soviet soldiers battling the Germans. The stone walls that the sculptures are curved upon are from the old Nazi fortifications that were built on the hill. I touched the rock, getting a sense of the history that had gone on here 73 years ago. It was an amazing sensation. We then head up yet another stair way and entered the Hall of the Eternal Flame. It was a magnificent sight to see and the atmosphere was that of a church. When you step inside, you see a stark white sculpture of a hand grasping a torch. It must stand at least 20 to 30 feet high. A brilliant flame burns from the torch. The hall is a circular structure and around it’s walls are the names of thousand of Soviet soldiers who gave their lives in defense of Stalingrad. It was a very sobering moment to see all the names. As we exited we saw the statue of Mother Russia standing tall and proud, with a sword in her hand. The memorial was build between 1959 and 1967 and is totally made of concrete, except for the sword blade which is stain-less steel. The statue reminds me of the Greek representations of Nike, with her flowing drapery. The statue stands 52 meters tall (170 feet) and is 82 meters from the feet to the point of the sword (269 feet), making it taller then the Statue of Liberty in New York City. The official title of the monument is The Motherland Calls, and it was designed by Yevgney Vucheitch. Vasily Zaitsev is also buried here. On the grounds of this hollowed place, it is still possible to find fragments of bone and metal still buried throughout the hill. There are also a series of graveyards on the hill, many of which lack names.

Diogo and I then shared a few glasses of beer with Pierre after our tour and returned to our hostel. It was convenient that our hostel was located near the Mamayev Kurgan, but inconvenient in that it was very far away from the University. We got a good night sleep and headed to the University at around 9:15 in order to make it in time for registration between 10:30 and 11:00. It takes about an hour to get to there by marshot and it made me appreciate the morning rush and battle to get to work everyday that million of people around the world have to go through while living in big cities (Volgograd is a metropolis of 3 million and is 40 miles wide). It was difficult during some morning to even find a seat on the marshots as many were stuffed with people. The streets in Volgograd and also very muddy and the dust and car exhaust make breathing a difficult. They are also a lot of industrial complex shattered throughout the city and one can imagine all of the pollution that one is breathing from these factories. It made me miss the clean mountain air of the Caucasus very quickly. It took about an hour to get back and forth from the hostel to the University. The the air was so bad that the first day into our stay, I developed a rash on my face that dried out my skin to the point where my cheeks cracked a bled. But, needless to say, the trip was worth it.

Volgograd State University is on the edge of town, on a hill, over looking the Volga. The University itself is not much to look at, but it serves its purpose. We walked up the hill (a task in of itself) and entered the main library where registration was to begin. We then got all of our materials, including our name tags, delegate cards with our countries names on them, and our folder with all of our paper s and notebooks. We met our fellow delegates within our various committees. Diogo was in the International Court of Justice and their topic was the genocide in Rwanda. The working language of his committee was in French, so it was perfect for him to practice his fourth language. His also represented his native country of Brazil. There was also the committee of Economics, in which the working language was Russian and I my committee was the Secuity Council. I represented the nation of Uruguay and our topic was on the relationship between Iran and Saudi Arabia, a very relevant topic in regards to the current geopolitical situation. I enjoy that these last two Model UN’s have been very useful when discussing the various happening in the world. The working language of the Secuity Council is English, but to be honest my peers spoke Russian on a daily basis and the working language may as well have been Russo-English. On the first day, we had open committee, just to review the rules and procedures. We also did a mock session, the topic of which was “legalizing prostitution.” This made we laugh and made most of the delegates very uncomfortable. Representing Uruguay, of course my nation was for the legalization of prostitution as Uruguay has legalized almost everything else. The delegate of Ukraine was also for the legalization and I asked him whether or not his government would be willing to put a “premium” on Ukraine women as the world knows they’re very beautiful. The room started laughing the delegate was speechless. One must be on their toes at all times when in these negotiations.

That evening, Angelina and the other heads of the Volgograd International Relations faculty brought us on a bus tour of Volgograd. We stopped by the theater and the train station, as well as one of the city squares. It had an eternal flame memorial. This place is also famous for a tree that is the only surviving tree from battle 73 years ago. It is literally a living witness to history. It also looking the part as its appearance is ancient with its gnarled trunk and finger like limbs. There is also a memorial to all the foreign fighters who fought in defense of the city, notably to Spanish Communists who fled to the Soviet Union after the Spanish Civil War. We then got back on our bus and headed to the western bank of the Volga where we saw “Pavlov’s House,” yet another sobering moment. We of course took a lot of photos and I was introduced to the student journalists who were covering the Model UN. I thought it was very cool that journalism majors were assigned to report on the happenings both inside and outside on committee and it gave a new element of “live reporting,” seeing articles pop up in the Volgograd Model UN’s website and VK page. The networks represented were CNN, Russian Today (RT) and Euronews. It was very similar to the news networks that we established at Hastings during my senior year Global Summit. I loved this idea and it was nice to see it in practice here at Volgograd State University.

The second day was the longest, as we had committee starting a 9 o’clock in the morning. We started by listening to all of our fellow delegates speeches regarding their individual nations stance on the relationships between Iran and Saudi Arabia. It was interesting to hear all the speeches and it think about how consistent they were with the actual positions of their nations. The delegate from Ukraine was one of the most entertaining individuals in the whole committee. It his speech, he got side tracked after and question from the delegate from Spain who asked him if “borscht and salo” were Russian or Ukraine dishes, after he said that Ukraine would counter terrorism and extremism by exporting Ukrainian culture. I then responded by saying, “How are Ukraine export its culture in the Middle East if Muslims can’t eat salo?” Laughter then ensued and it all fell apart, the Presidium calling us all to order (Ukraine also is the “problem child” in this events). Questions were frequent and it was very good to have most delegates actively engage in debate and confront their peers based on policy differences. It was very interesting to see how the coalitions formed. Uruguay is a very neutral nation and I allied myself with regional partners including the Venezuela was it made sense. The hardest challenge was to find ways to maintain my nations trade deals with Iran, while staying buddy, buddy with the global powers and my regional allies.

The second day was a mix of more speeches from the delegates (it took forever to get through all the opinions from each nation) and coalition building. It was very strange to see the United States, the Russian Federation, and China working together in a coalition that including myself, and several of the smaller players including Venezuela and Egypt. The second coalition was ever stranger with Iran and Saudi Arabia working together, along side of France and the UK. It made us all question the situation and what was going on. We then spent most of the time debating back and forth from calling both Iran and Saudi Arabia out on this unrealistic alliance and myself and my fellow delegates from our coalition gave several speeches on the matter. The third day was then spent on framing ideas for a resolution and we started writing. It main points in our working paper were concerning with economic incentives and nonintervention, while maintaining the standards of international law and past resolutions on the subject. We also emphasized the Group 77 of which Iran is a member, could help open a venue for starting dialogue and that Sunni and Shia leaders must work together at the grass roots to route our extremist elements within their communities.

After the resolutions were presented buy both groups, their was more debate on the various points and good work was being done on finding some common ground. It was still very difficult as the UK vetoed our resolution and China, the U.S. and Russia vetoed theirs. After this, we were at a stale mate. The fourth day was the most intense for the debates, were we need to persuade the opposite coalition to agree with ours. I gave a speech on the fact that Iran needed to be checked on its commitment to the international community and that only through mutual cooperation by member of the Secuity Council could goals be made. In the end, France and the UK backed us and Iran even caved, making the whole event a “done deal.” I was very impressed by the commitment and effort that my fellow delegates put into the conference, especially for some of my peers who were at Model UN for the first time. It was also great to learn about them as people. I really got to know more about them at the dinner we had for all the delegates on the third night. There was good food and champagne, the tradition of toasts was alive and well. There was also dancing. I was evening asked to dance lezginka by Angelina, so we dance lezginka together and it was a hit amongst my peers. We had a very good time and I’m so glad that Diogo and I got to met so many people, connections that will serve us well in life.

At the end of the conference, we had an award ceremony. I was awarded the Best Delegate Award again. I honestly was shocked because these things rarely happen twice. I’m so thankful for the experience of both participating in this conference and also to see the famous city on the Volga. Diogo and I returned to Pyatigorsk with a set of new experiences, good memories and we made a lot of people. I can say though that I’m happy now to have a break for conferences and traveling. Well, friends I hope you are all well and doing fine. Chat with you later. From Russian with regards.

Model UN and Astrakhan

On April 2, 2016April 2, 2016 By de TuttlevilleLeave a comment

It has been a very, very busy last two weeks for me. I apologize to my readers for the delay in a blog, but the time to sit down write was taken away by the negotiation table and by teaching children. I would have to say that the last two weeks has been a major highlight in second semester for me, as it gave me opportunities to practice skills that I worked on during my years at Hastings as an undergrad, meet many new and interesting people, and do the thing that I love that most, which is traveling to different places.

This year, Pyatigorsk State Linguistic University (PSLU) hosted it’s first ever Model United Nations. The Model UN is an annual event, which allows students at the college level to “recreate” the experiences of the real institution. Even delegate is required to write a draft paper on the topic of the conference and also write a paper on the nation they are representing, including that nations stance on the specific subject (the countries that delegates represent are selected at random buy the committee). My first time experiencing this as during my senior year of college, when my political science class and I traveled to Model United Nations in New York. We represented the country of Niger, the topic being the “Rights of Indigenous Peoples.” The conference as week long and we gained so much value experience in regards to how the UN works, how to conduct negotiations with our fellow delegates and write resolutions.

At Pyatigorsk we did the same, but on a smaller scale. In New York there were at least over a thousand delegates participating. At Pyatigorsk there were only about 300, six of whom (including Diogo and myself) were international students. I was looking forward to seeing and experiencing the difference between how the Russians run their Model United Nations and how the “West” does theirs. I submitted my paper on the topic of the conference as soon as I was able. The topic was on “Combating Terrorism and Extremism,” a very relevant topic as you can imagine. A week later, I was contacted by the committee on change of the Security Council and I was given the Russian Federation to represent. My mother and I found this very funny, but in any regard to nice to see a Russian student feel that I was “qualified” to represent their country in an official setting. I was honored in fact. Diogo ended up representing the nation of Senegal and my friend Alina was the delegate for Egypt. It was very different then from New York, in that, students individually represented their nation. In other words, I was the individual delegate from PSLU who represented Russia within the Security Council, whereas other students from Moscow, Volgograd etc. represented Russia, but in other committees (notably in the Council on Economics and within the committee on Combating the Social Aspects of Extremism).

The conference started on the 14th of March and lasted until the 18th. A normal day was sitting in committee and negotiating the terms of our goals during most of the morning. It was great to be on the “other side of the table” during this event as I got to defend Russian’s stance the economic and geopolitical issues, such as the Crisis in Syria. I was ally less in the Security Council, only the delegates from China and Venezuela would have anything to do with me during the start. I now understand with it feels like to be a representative of a country and have the whole of the Security Council gang up in you through its monopoly on power within the institution. It was cool that a girl from Georgia was representing the United States, and she played the part well and like a firecracker. I’d never would want to be on her “bad side.” All of my fellow delegates were very kind and informed on their nations and the topic and exchanged a lot of ideas on regards to how our respective nations could improve relations with one another. I met many Russians from Volgograd, Moscow, Krasnodar and the city of Kurgan (in Siberia). It was interesting that most of them thought I was a Caucasian, because of my beard and Caucasian accent. It was also delightful to talk about the Caucasus region. It seems the further north one goes in Russia, the more fearful of the Caucasus people get (though I understand the view of the students living in Volgograd, as they’ve had several terrorist attacks in their city).

After four days of negotiations, we were getting to the period in the process where the most touchy issues had to be tackled. Talking about Syria split the room into the pro-Assad camp and the anti-Assad camp. We all tired to find middle ground on the issue, becoming successful after citing and “rehashing” Resolution 2054 from the real negotiations on the Syrian conflict which happened in September. We managed to make a joint resolution after Russian’s resolution was shot down (I wasn’t surprised). We all tried to stay in our nations character, while managing to ally on regional security issues, on humanitarian aid, on sharing intelligence, and on regional development of regions suffering for terrorism, notably in Africa, the Middle East, and Latin America. We also get to listen to several speakers from the Russian Foreign Service discuss the various issues within the realm of combating terrorism and extremism. In the end we came up with a resolution that sported 24 clauses. We had several photo ops as well as and coffee breaks between all the talks. At the closing ceremonies, delegates were awarded with certificates for taking part in the event and each of the three committees gave an award for “Best Delegate.” I was chosen for the “Best Delegate Award” within the Security Council. This was an award given through a vote amongst one’s peers. It was a wonder experience that I will never forget.

The biggest things I noticed that were different in regards to the Model UN conference in Pyatigorsk, besides the scale of the event was that most of the efforts within the three committees were organized by the students. Students from Pyatigorsk, Volgograd and Moscow helped arrange the schedule. The time for all of the events was set by the students in conjunction with the university and with the catering service that supplied us ample amount of tea, coffee and sacks during the conference. Another difference was in the time itself. The Model UN in New York was very hectic and we worked within our various committees from the early morning and into the late evening, from 6am to 11pm, sometimes as late as 2am. Here in Pyatigorsk, we worked from 9 in the morning until 5 in the afternoon. We also had a lunch break and two coffee breaks everyday. During the late afternoon break, I usually worked on the draft resolution with some of my peers or looked up some more information on the stats from the UN, or from the Russian Federation’s various administrations. Those are some of the biggest differences. In regards to politics, educated Russians who are my age are very out spoken about the issues that their nation faces and are happy to point out when their government “gets it wrong.” I even had the delegate for the United States say to me that she wished by I “was apart of the Russian government” so that relations with the West would “normalize.” I was humbled, though, I won’t let it go to my head.

After the conference, I was then massaged on Facebook my our faculty sponsor, Nina. She wrote to me in regards to a teaching opportunity in the city of Astrakhan. A friend of hers by the name of Irina Ivanova, runs a private school of English language for young children. She asked Nina if she could spare a few English speakers and Diogo and I were chosen to go. The costs for the trip and the cost of living would be paid from my Irina’s company. We left Pyatigorsk on the 19th and we stayed there for 9 days. We were given an apartment to live in, which was a pleasant surprise after our 12 hour long bus ride. The apartment was also very close to the city center and this made it easier to travel to and from both our place of work and the cities special sites. The school what Diogo and I worked at is called “A-Foward” and was need 15 blocks away from our apartment. It was a very comfortable commute to the school everyday. I was also very glad that the weather was decent during our stay. I was concerned when it snowed while we travel from Pyatigorsk to Astrakhan. The snow looked like dunes of sand from inside the van, darkness obstructing shapes and textures. Traveling at night was both a blessing and a curse as you can sleep on the way, but can’t see the landscape.

Astrakhan is seated on the Volga Delta, overlooking the northern shores of the Caspian Sea (about 20 or so miles from the sea itself). The area is famous for it’s once rich schools of sturgeon, but alas over the last 200 years, the demand for black caviar has almost brought this species of fish to extinction. Today, on the Black Market, a can of 8 oz black caviar can go as high as $100. The region is also home to many exotic plant species, many of whom are found only in the Volga Delta. Astrakhan is first recorded to be mentioned by travelers during the early 13th century as the city of “Xacitarxan.” The famous leader Tamerlane (a powerful and respected leader of the Golden Horde, the massive, mounted army of Mongol/Tatar warriors who conquered the vast steppe lands in the 12th and 13th centuries) burnt the old city to the ground and established amongst it’s ruins the new medieval settlement of Astrakhan in 1395. I can only describe the city was a mix of Saint Petersburg and something Russian/Asian. The architecture of that of neoclassical style with those wonderful pastel colors, which remind me of Easter. It is an interesting contrast from the cities original beginnings.

The city served as the capital of the Astrakhan Khanate from 1459 to 1556, until Tsar Ivan IV conquered the khanate and built a new fortress or kremlin on the steep hills over looking the Volga. The year 1558 is traditionally considered the “official founding” of the modern city. During the Russo-Turkish War of 1568-1570, Astrakhan was besieged by the Ottoman armies, but were felled by the superior “zeal” of Russian forces. This intern, resulted in the sultan renouncing his claims to Astrakhan, opening the Volga River to Russian economic, cultural and military influence. In the 17th century, the city was developed and promoted as the “Gateway to the Orient,” and many Russian merchants exchanged goods with Armenians, Safavid Persians, the Khiva Khanate, and even as far as Mughal India, building successful trade routes. As a result, Astrakhan has developed as very strong, cosmopolitan character. The kremlin itself is large and dominated by the Cathedral of the Assumption. This towering structure could be seen from our apartment windows and it’s impressive bells from ring on every hour. We toured the kremlin with a bright man named, Maxim. He is a teacher at the school, specialized in English and responsible from many for the older students. He walked and talked with Diogo and I as we toured the kremlin. We also had the opportunity to see an expedition of works by Salvador Dali. It was interesting as I have not seen many for his works. His depictions of horses are very strange, with their huge, volleyball sized testicles. Anyway, the museum also had a galley of restored photographs of Tsar Nicholas II and his family, some as early as 1893 and others as late as that faithful year, 1917. It was very historically satisfying.

The Cathedral of the Assumption in the Astrakhan Kremlin.

We then head to a cafe for our evening meal. Maxim had invited us to an “English club” he was having with some of his friends. Two women soon joined us. One of them is named Polina. She graduated from Saint Petersburg University a few years back and is currently working as translator of Russian and English one in of the international supply rings near Astrakhan. She is also a blogger and journalist. We had great discussions for the everyday “hello name is… and I live in…” to political and social conservation. It was interesting to observe that Maxim and his friends were very open about talking about Russian political and social issues. I’ve never heard Russian on a first meeting be so open when speaking about these topics. I was really taken aback by it. After that we head to a pub called “Kultovey” and sat down to have a few glasses of beer. To quote Maxim, he called it a “hipster bar,” and I understood way as there were many men in the bar with waxed facial hair, vests and regular famed glasses. The bar was very nice and the dark beer was refreshing. We also went to the State Opera and Musical Theater in Astrakhan, in which we heard the famous tunes of “Jesus Christ Superstar,” “Livin’ in America (from Westside Story),” Star Wars and the other classics of modern Western (American) culture. I was shocked.

To Diogo and I’s surprise, Astrakhan also has a very impressive beer culture. There are several breweries within the city that make very good beer. One such establishment that we visited is called “Beer House.” I very larger and “German” style pub, it must be a great place for all the Russian soccer fans to gather together, watch a game and share a pint or two or three. We when will several of our co-workers at A-Forward, including with Irina and we celebrated by drinking the brew. Diogo and I are huge fans of beer and we wanted to try as many local brews as possible. I had a glass of “Beer House” dark which reminded me a lot of a Guinness and Diogo and I both got a 3 liter glass with a tap on the side of it, the center filled with a tube, stuffed with ice to keep the amber liquid cold. It was very wheaty and unfiltered, making it taster so nice. We also enjoyed the pub food. I love Russian pub food, fried black bread, fried palmeni, baked chicken and every fried cheese sticks. What a wonderful mix of food to have with a good beer. Another great brewery is called “Academia Piva (The Academic’s Beer),” and it is most likely my favorite beer establishment in all of the Astrakhan (well at least the parts we got to visit). It is a very old brewery, built in 1904. It had great a atmosphere, brick walls and wooden fames, with photos of the old brewery. There was also historical artifacts of the brewery stored in display cases which hung on the walls. One of them most interesting prices of stone that must have been on the original floor of the brewery when it was first built. This was also certificate framed on the wall that displayed that the brewery had passed the “Beer Purity Laws” or Reinheitsgebot that the Bavarian Principality established in the 1516, creating a standard of ingredients and regulations to improve quality. It was really cool to see the “Academia Piva” had been recognized for this. I would love to learn more about the brewery, especially how the First and Second World Wars effected the breweries’s production and popularity. My favorite beer there is their red lager. To be honest, lager helps end our stressful days with the children.

At “Beer House,” drink my own 3 liters worth.

One of the display cases in “Academia Piva.”

The history of Astrakhan is also equally as fascinating as the beer. In the past, Astrakhan was held by Astrakhan Cossacks who were relocated by the Tsar from the Volga region in March of 1750. Cossacks have a long history within the city of Astrakhan. In the 1670s, the city was the prize of Stenka Razin and his band of Cossacks and in 1705 by the Cossacks under the leadership of Kondraty Bulavin, who led a rebellion against Tsar Peter the Great. Cossacks have played an important roll as both rebels to and enforcers of the Tsar’s will. This duality is what makes them both fascinating and dangerous. Historically speaking, the Cossacks of Astrakhan have been loyal to the Tsar, but their small numbers have been over shadowed by their Don Cossack kin in the Volga region. Astrakhan Cossacks are unique in that they wear papakha with yellow cloth tops, distinguishing their regional identity (as examples, Don and Kuban Cossacks will wear red cloth tops whereas Terek Cossacks wear blue). Their presence in the city was important, as Astrakhan become a trade and transportation hub in the Russian Empire after Peter the Great commissioned a shipyard, giving the Russians an opening into the Caspian Sea (is monument on the banks of the Volga is very impressive, capturing his raw power and command of authority). This however, was the catalyst for hostilities against Safavid Persia. In 1717, the city become the base for Russia’s expansion within Central Asia. The Persians then plundered the city in 1719, resulting in several fires that burned much of the old city. This city is a health mix of Russian and Central Asian, with splashes of German. On the second day, we took the children out to recess. During that time, they played in the park near the kremlin. Here, Astrakhan has a monument to the Astrakhan Cossacks who served Tsar Alexander I during the Napoleonic Wars (1805-1812). Nearby, there was also a statue to the soldiers who fought in the First World War, a rarity to be sure. Across for that statue was a monument to the Eternal Flame, with several plaques detail the sacrifices of the Soviet Nation, especially from the soldiers of Astrakhan who volunteered 150,000 men, 77,000 of whom never returned.

The Eternal Flame.

Astrakhan is also famous for the Astrakhan papakha. Made of karakul or qaraqul (a breed of sheep), it is very warm and fashionable among the traditional dress of Central Asian men. Qaraqul means “black fur” in Turkic and similar types of hats are common among the Turkic speaking peoples who inhabit the Central Asian steppe. The hat is peaked and folds flat when taken off of the wear’s head, being triangular in shape. Like other papakha, it is made from the fleece of an aborted lamb fetus. The food in Astrakhan also personifies the influence of Central Asia. Tatar, Kazakh and Uzbek cuisine are some of the highlights in Astrakhan. Diogo found a fantastic Uzbek restaurant a few blocks from the apartment we stayed in. We wanted to order the famous Uzbek palov, (one can argue it is their national dish), but to our surprise and disbelief, they were out of the wonderful rice dish with meat. Sadness however, lasted only momentarily as we ordered Uzbek khachapuri (I love that one can find Uzbek versions of Georgian food), chuchpara (Uzbek fried palmeni, made with lamb), chaikhanas (their famous green tea), and a lamb samosa. It was a very filling meal.

Between our sighting seeing, beer tasting and eating of delicious food, we worked at A- Forward for 5 to 6 hours a day, starting everyday at 9 in the morning. The age group we worked with was from 5 to 11 (the oldest student we had was a 14 years old). It was a wide range in regards to age, so it made it a little difficult to create a lesson plan that could teach the young children while keeping the older one’s interested. Some children had very little experience in speaking English, while others had been speaking for 2 or 3 years. They said that a child’s attention span is as long as their age. So, a 5 year old as 5 minute attention span, whereas a 15 year old has 15 minutes. It is difficult to keep teaching going when the class are an hour and 30 minutes long. It one doesn’t keep this in mind and focuses just on a “traditional lesson,” you lose em very quickly. Every 7 or 10 minutes I’d play “Simon Says” with them to have them stand up and move around. They have so much energy. I’d find myself very tried at 5 o’clock and both Diogo and I would nap when we returned from teaching.

The boys and girls were taught in separate rooms. Diogo and I decided to switch both groups, taking the mornings with the boys, as an example and after the middle morning break, go and teach the girls. I tried to cater the lessons to the students interests and the older students would usually come up with a topic and I’d go over vocabulary with them and give with picture games, while writing a few sentences to see how their grammar progressed. The girls read and wrote in English very well for their levels, but at the beginning were very shy. The boys (at least the older pair, named Igor and Bogdon) spoke more, but needed work on writing and spelling, something that I totally understand. The boys were very interesting in animals and the words for biological parts, such as heart, lungs etc. I would draw a picture of an animal on the white-board and they would label the parts after I gave them a list of words. When teaching the girls we talked about the stars and planets, fashion and food. We also played games with the kids, such as laser tag which was very fun. It was great way to learn about the boys in an unofficial environment.

Toward the end of our teaching session, the girls and boys preformed songs for their parents in English and we helped them practice. The girls were assigned songs, one group singing “Try Everything,” from the new Disney movie “Zootopia” (which the European and Russian cinemas have called, “Zoopolis”). Another group sang the song “Slow Down,” by Selena Gomez, a song I personally found very inappropriate for 6 and 7 old girls to be singing. With lyrics such “I want to feel your body right next to mind,” and other sexual phrases. It made me feel very uncomfortable. The last song which the oldest girls sang was good, a song called “Milky Way” by the group “One Kids (never heard of them). The youngest group of boys sang, “Strangers Like Me” from Tarzan, something I picked out from them. The older boys did two numbers, “Stole the Show” and “Sugar (both songs were picked up by them as they knew them).” The concert when well over all and the children’s parents were impressed and very happy that Diogo and I were there to teach them.

We had a very good time in Astrakhan and I got to see and experience a lot. The city was very kind to us and I’m glad thankful to have been the opportunity to teach a great group if kids and work with a talented group of teachers.

Women’s Day, Amazons and Pagan Festivals

On March 11, 2016 By de TuttlevilleLeave a comment

Ayetel Al-Kürsi

“Allah! There is no god, but He-the Living, The Self-subsisting, Eternal. No slumber can seize Him Nor Sleep. His are all things In the heavens and on earth. Who is there can intercede In His presence except As he permitteth? He knoweth What (appeareth to His creatures As) Before or After or Behind them. Nor shall they compass Aught of his knowledge Except as He wilted. His throne doth extend Over the heavens And on earth, and He feeleth No fatigue in guarding And preserving them, For He is the Most High the Supreme (in glory).” – from the Holy Koran, “The Cow” verse 255 of the second chapter, Surah Baqarah.

Well, the first week in March has flown by and with it decent weather and fun happenings. I’ve managed with the help of a mix of Google Translate and an internet PDF of the theology of the Holy Koran, priced together my copy of the Ayetel Al-Kürsi that I bought in Grozny. I heard it sung in the original Arabic on Youtube and it was very beautiful, what a melody. I always enjoy going to the original source material when possible and experiencing it as it was originally intended. My copy is currently hanging on the back my door and is a lovely addition to my room. In respect to my former roommates religious wishes, I didn’t hang it up, but on that he is no longer here, I’ve decided to hang it.

The weather has been nice for the most part. Being the beginning of March, I’m skeptical that it will be in the mid-50’s forever, but I’m hopeful that it will progressively get warmer. Last Friday was gorgeous. It was in the mid-60’s and the sun was shinning to happily in the clear, blue sky. Sara, Jeanne and I take a walk up Malshuk and stopping to rest near and on the “Love Gate” that is up there. I climbed on top to the arch-like monument and relaxed. I could see most of the front range, though the haze from either smoke or dust (likely a combination of both) was concealing Elbrus. I sat up there for a while and just soaked in the view. The warmth of the sun felt so good on my skin and a calm, cool breeze blew just enough to make the hair on my arms stand on end. We observed Russians walked up and down the mountain, some of them wearing high heels, a sight that I will never get over. During the last few days, the mornings have been grey and cloudy, the afternoon’s bringing the sun. It has also rained a lot, a good sign for the earth and the farmers who cultivate it.

Classes have been slow. We have had so many holidays and days off, that I’m beginning to wonder if class even exists anymore. Last week, our grammar teacher fell ill and this week we had classes cancelled on Monday and Tuesdays because of International Women’s Day. Russians and some other nations celebrate this holiday on the 8th of March, recognizing the various roles women have in society and their accomplishments. Usually, people celebrate by giving their favorites girls flowers, presents, and maybe a nice, sit down dinner at a restaurant. I bought a few roses for Anna and I’s dance teacher, to thank her for all the time and work that she has put in to teach us the various forms of Kabardian Kafa and Georgian lezginka. I’ve spent most of the long weekend catching up on sleep, reading and watching several classic films including H.G. Well’s, The Time Machine and Soylent Green.

We have also had a few fun moments here at the obshaga. We have been going to Zlato Bar (another bar that we frequent) more often on Thursday evenings. Out traditions night out, this Zlato has a calmer and more “female friendly” atmosphere then the other bar that we used to good to. The dark beer at Zlato is great and whatever make the girls happier is a better option in this regard. We have all given a wonderful welcome to Florane, a new addition to our international family here. Last Friday, we went to anther bar called Factory Bar, a mix between a club, a bar and playboy mansion (as there were waitresses walking around in buddy ears and tails). We had some booze at the dorm before leaving so I just talked to my friends and shared a hookha stand. After some time spent here, we then headed at a shashlik stand by Rumashka (a part of Pyatigorsk) and ate lamb shashlik with lamb and potatoes and lavash. In this part of Pyatigorsk, you can run into some very strange characters at 3:30 in the morning. Diogo and I spoke with a pair of Armenians who were nice guys, but a Russian over hearing us, took offense to that and sound all kinds of slurs about Armenians and Caucasians before sitting his drunk body in a chair. He then turned his attention to Diogo and I and started talking to us, insisting that Diogo was “African” and not Brazil and that I was “Scottish” and a “spy,” after I explained to him that my first name was Scottish in origin. I don’t understand who some Russians can’t pronounce my name. They have all the letters for it. The spelling of Иан in Russian, equals Ian, it’s not that difficult. I have see my name spelled these ways as well: Иен, Йен and as my visa spells it Ян… I’m not Chinese… Yan is not my name. An interesting encounter to say the least.

12783807_10153930401552389_6017950490051395731_o — Zlato Bar

The following weekend was uneventful. I read, slept and felt like a total couch potato. Grey clouds swept into the lowlands, over taking much of Malshuk and half of Beshtau. Earlier the previous day, plans were made to climb Beshtau, but as the dark clouds gathered that evening I knew that the plan was going to be for not. It rained for most of the night and I got a message on my phone that said the event had been cancelled, a good decision. The rains would had made the ground soft and muddy, making the climb both dirty and dangerous. The skies remained cloudy for most of the Sunday and Monday, cold air lingering and dropping temperatures to the mid-50s again. We passed the time away during this days by talking and sharing beer, two of the obshaga’s main pass times. On Tuesday, we celebrated Women’s Day, but first I wanted another shashlik fix, so Diogo, Sara, Christophe and I headed down to Shashlik Number One and went to town. We ordered ribs and loins of lamb, with lavash, potatoes, mushrooms, Georgian style potatoes (semi-fried potatoes with sauce and paprika, a new favorite of mine), with Georgian plum and pepper sauce and white sauce (garlic sauce). It was a feast fit for the best Caucasian table. The ribs of lamb towered over plate they were served on and the smell was a heavenly aroma of seared flesh, burnt wood and grease for the fat of the lamb.

After our wonderful meal, Christophe and I headed to Neapolitano and waited for Maddie, Alina and Vika to show up. I’m glad that we head up to the restaurant when we did, as the place was packed to the walls with people at 8 o’clock. I waited for maybe five or ten minutes for an open table, found one and quickly claimed it for our party. On the way to Neapolitano, I bought two, white tulips, one for Alina and one for Vika as their gifts for Women’s Day. The girls then arrived, I give them their flowers which they were most appreciated, sitting on either side of me, the thorn between the two roses. I just ordered a beer there, Alina and Maddie sharing a pizza, while Vika had sushi, and Christophe with his girlfriend had tea. We had a good time and it was so nice to celebrate Women’s Day with my girls.

On the subject of Women’s Day, there so some interesting things to tell about the Circassians and their women. It has been thought by many historians and linguists that the legend of the Amazon come from Greek settlers and their encounters with Circassians. Pottery dated from to the fifth-century B.C. has been found in the North Caucasus (specifically historic Circassia) depicting women riding on horses, fighting and hunting. These theories have been made my comparing phonetic sounds of both Ancient Greek and Proto-Circassian.

Linguists such as John Colarusso, an expert in Kabardian and Abkhaz from Canada’s McMasters University (I have communicated with him though e-mail), have translated the inscriptions on these surviving pieces of pottery and have come to the conclusion that the ancient Greeks seem to have been trying to re-create sounds of the ancient Scythian names and words, a language group who’s decedents are many Caucasian languages. On the “Amazon vases,” Colarusso found an archer named Battle-Cry, a horsewomen named Worthy of Armor, and others with names such as Hot Flanks the maybe had erotic connotations. On one vase, a scene for two Amazons hunting with a dog appears with a Greek transliteration for the Abkhazian (a cousin nation and language of the Circassians) word meaning “set the dog loose.” Other figures show heroes such as Hercules and Achilles, characters who share many traits to the Nart heroes of Circassian and Caucasian legends. On one of the vases, some characters speak decipherable Greek phrases, Colarusso translating the same Circassian variants to similar meanings and even taking Greek phrases that looked like gibberish, such as “noraretteblo” into the Circassian “This sneak thief steals from the man over there.” Some very cool stuff. It is very interesting not only because of the sharing between the ancient Greeks and the Circassians, but also because the translations point out the interconnection of the ancient world where the Bronze Age trade routes extended from Iberia through the Caucasus into Siberia.

Circassian women have also been very famous historically speaking for their beauty, charisma, strength and did I mention beauty. Literary history suggests that Circassian women wee thought to be unusually beautiful, spirited, slender and elegant, making them some of the most desirable women in Europe and within the harems of the Ottoman Sultans. The French philosopher, Voltaire enhanced the legend of Circassian women in his Letter on the English, written in 1734 alluding that…

“The Circassians are poor, and their daughters are beautiful, and indeed it is in them they chiefly trade. They furnish with those beauties the seraglio of the Turkish Sultan, of the Persian Soppy, and of all of those who are wealthy enough to purchase and maintain such precious merchandise. These maidens are very honorably and virtuously instructed how to fondle and caress men; are taught dances of a very polite and effeminate kind; and how to heighten by the most voluptuous artifices the pleasures of their disdainful masters for whom they are designed.” – from Letter XI, On Inoculation

This reputation goes as far back as the High Middle Ages, when the Circassians coast (modern day cities such as Sochi and Anapa) was frequented by Genoese traders. During the Ottoman Empire and the Persian Safavid and Qajar dynasties, Circassian were taken and lived as slaves within the harems of the Sultan and the Pasha, which in turn influenced the common trope in Western Orientalism. As a result of this reputation, both Europeans and Americans idealized the Circassian women as the perfect forms of feminine beauty within poetry, art and cosmetic products during the 18th and 19th centuries. Westerns have taken a special interest in Circassian women and at the height of its popularity, the term Circassian was a household name in America during the 1860s. Mark Twain wrote in The Innocents Abroad (1869) that “Circassian and Georgian girls are still sold in Constantinople by their parents, but not publicly. The combination of issues such as slavery, Orietnlism, racial ideology and sexual desire, gave Circassian women popularity. American showman P. T. Barnum even went as far as to use the word “Circassian” in the title of soap and shampoo his products, claiming that it was made of materials used by the women of Circassia. He also “displayed” the “Circassian Beauties” at his American Museum in 1865, though it is unlikely that any of the women within these shows (hired for their tall, slender figures with teased hairstyles) had any Circassian ancestry. Barnum’s most popular women was marketed under the name “Zalumma Agra” and was in reality a local American girl from New York City.

Painting by Aslan Karmockow

Continuing the theme of historical events, the Russian holiday of Maslenitsa started on the 7th of March. Maslenitsa is the Eastern Slavic religious and folk celebration during the last week before the Lent, corresponding to the Western tradition however, beginning on a Monday instead of a Wednesday. Maslenitsa will end on the 13th of March. Some scholars believed the Maslenitsa maybe the oldest Russian-Christian holiday as evidence of it’s practice dates to the 2nd century A.D. Maslenitsa, however maybe even older, taking into account it’s pagan roots. In Slavic mythology, Maslentisa is a sun-festival, a personification and tribute to the god Volos, symbolizing the end of winter and the coming of spring. It is unclear when the festival became Christianized.

During the week of Maslenitsa, it is forbidden for devout Orthodox Christians to eat meat As in the Western tradition, this week is characterized by the making bliny (thin pancakes, but thicker then a crepe), to use up the rich and fatty foods before the fast that follows. Butter, eggs, milk and cheeses will be eaten. During Slavic paganism, bliny symbolized the round shape and golden color of the sun. Maslenitsa (for the extremely devout) represents the last chance to take part in social activities that include: secular music, dancing and other distractions from pious pursuits, living a more prayerful, sober and self-reflective life during the Lenten season. The last day of Maslenitsa is called “Proshchenoye Voskresen’ye” or “Forgiveness Sunday.” Relatives and friends will traditionally ask each other for forgiveness of one another by making a polka or bow and may give presents.

During the Soviet Era, Maslenitsa was not celebrated officially, as Communism promoted Atheism. It was widely observed in families however, regardless of it’s religious significance as an opportunity to prepare food for family and friends. During the period of perestroika, the holiday was revived as a religious practice for many Russians. Here in the Caucasus, Maslenitsa is celebrated but, many Russians do not abstain from eating meat, as celebrations can be accompanied by shashlik vendors, who cater to the secular crowds and to the non-Christian population. Most Muslims will not partake in the festivities, however some many enjoy the days off of work that are sometimes giving during this time. Our faculty hosted a party for Maslenitsa, some of the students ran a blini stand, making them per order. Tea was also served in mass amounts. Igor and Kensia were our masters of ceremonies, talking about the point of Maslenitsa and the traditions. They also hosted various dances and games, the girls dancing Russian and Cossack dances, and those that were brave enough (including myself) played games such as “tug-of-war” and potato pealing races. Our faculty also did a bonfire to my surprise. We all went outside and watched the effigy of winter was burned away. Spring has officially “arrived.”

Anna and I will go and visit a bonfire on Sunday, burning the Snow Queen and releasing spring from her icy hands. It all be held in one of Pyatigorsk’s parks. I think events going to be at Pioneer’s Park, but I’ll find out on later. My friend Antonio has now arrived and it is going to be like old times. It brings back so many memories from two years ago. Antonio brought a few Italians with him, so I have a feeling that the Italian language will soon dominate the halls of the obshaga.

Well, that’s it for the moment. I hope that the weather with continue to bring warmth and that the heat wave in the States will be pleasant. It’s nice to have a warm spell during March in Nebraska. I’m sure Taylor is loving it. From Russia with regards.

Cherkessk, Zheleznovodsk and Fun Moments with Friends

On February 28, 2016 By de TuttlevilleLeave a comment

As February comes to a close, I feel that the end of my time here in Pyatigork is getting closer. After February, only four more months, how could the time have pasted by so quickly. I think it is because I’ve been having so much fun and experiencing much more during my second year here. Pyatigorsk has been the best place to study Russian, at least for me, because of its location and the sense of community that the university has. I’ve been very likely to have the friends that I’ve made here both Russian and International, as well as having the resources and support the university can give. The weather has also been a very pleasant surprise, as the stereotypical cold of February as been replaced by an early spring. It was 61 degrees last Wednesday and it is predicted to be 70 this coming Wednesday. I’m shocked at this warm front, but I can’t complain, as it makes traveling around the Caucasus easier and more pleasant.

During the middle of February, the weather sea-sawed between winter and spring. It snowed then melted, and snowed again. It is remarkable to witness the changes in weather within a 50 kilometer area. Anna and I went to the city of Cherkessk, the capital of the Autonomous Republic of Karachey-Cherkessia (hopefully a recognizable name, to me regular readers). I’ve had the opportunity to travel many time to this Republic on my second time around and it is been interesting to see the similarities and differences between it and Kabardino-Balkaria. Both Republics have Circassian inhabitance, but are unique both historically and culturally. Anna is a native of Karachey-Cherkessia, living in a small mountain village. Her experiences and knowledge have been invaluable for me in order to understand this region better. Our mutual love of Circassian culture and history has created a loved bond between the both of us during the last six months. I’m very happy to count her as one of my close friends here.

Cherkessk isn’t very far away from Pyatigorsk, in fact it is about as far away from Pyatigorsk as Nalchik is, about an hour drive by marshot. The drive was a little longer this time around because it snowed that morning. It was fascinating to see the change in weather while driving through the rolling hills and trilled fields of this region, the mountains always “smiling” in the back ground. It was good to feel the warm touch of the sun on my face during our journey. It was a stark contrast from the cold and grey skies, hovering over Pyatigorsk. We arrived in Cherkessk during the mid-morning, around 11ish, so naturally we were hungry. Anna had planned ahead and took us to one of her favorite cafes in the city, which she and her father frequent. The cafe was very nice, paintings of the Caucasus Mountains and other Caucasian scenery. It was a Karachey cafe in cuisine and language. Khinchey, monti, and lagmon soup were all on the menu. We both had tea, an order of monti, khinchey with cheese and lavash. I also had lagoon soup, Anna had a cold, white soup, and glass of iyron (liquid sour cream). It was a lot of food and I am ashamed to say that I struggled, I’m not the eating machine that I once was. The food was so good, and Anna and I managed to share the last pieces of her khinchey with beat leaves, though after much pleading by her.

After our delightfully, filling meal, Anna and I took and walk around the center of the town. We worked off some of our food by walking, which was a vey good idea. We stopped by several book shops, looking for tomes on Circassian culture, language, history etc. Anna was also trying to find books in Turkish for she and Jan. I managed to fine a book by English ethnographer and naturalist, Edmond Spencer. Written in the late 1830’s, Spencer traveled much of the North Caucasus and was one of the first English writes to detail the Caucasus and it’s many peoples. Most the of text is in Russian, so it will be a good translation task, but the appendix is filled with English to Circassian (specifically Adyghe) words. It is going to be a great read, a very nice primary source. I’ve also been reading a lot more on the mythology of the Circassian Nation, and it has been a treat to see the cultural and regional uniqueness of these legends while understanding and realizing their similarities to Greek, Judeo-Christian and Muslim stories. The Circassians had their own version of the redemption of the world in the legend of Tilale. This chained hero was supposed to break from his irons chains and come into the world after the people had been stricken with famine. He then cleansed the world with the waters of the seas, and restored life to it. It is told as follows…
The Nart Legend of Tilale translated by Sanjalay A. Jaimoukha
“Because he dared to challenge God and disobey him, he had him seized and chained on top (of the Mountain).
“When it is time for the world to perish, they say that Tilale will break free of his shackles and will come down (to Earth).
“First, the world will be stricken with famine, and people will go through very trying times. Then Tilale will appear, blaring his horn, riding in his carriage full of sweetmeats and bedecked with sparkling jewellery.
“‘He who desires this, let him come to my side! he will tell the people. Then he will invoke a great blizzard, and will sweep the earth with the waters of the seas inundating the world. In this manner, he will restore life to the lost world.
“It was thus that I heard them relate the legend of Tilale.”

The legend is a mix of Caucasian, Greek, Judeo-Christian, and Muslim elements. The redemption theme is found in all these religious traditions. ‘Tilale’ is the Circassian version of the Arabic name “T’alāl;” the Adyghe version is Nesren Zchach’e. Nesren Zchach’e was the Circassian version of Prometheus. Like his Greek counterpart, the Nart hero was accused of hubris and was chained to the top of one of Mount Elbrus’ twin peaks, a vulture pecking at his heart (note in the Greek tale, the birds are eagles, eagles being a symbol of nobility in the Caucasus, the vulture was a suitable replacement). The Earth trembled, his chains knocked against one other, sending sparks as if from striking spears, making thunderous noises. His breath issued forth like uncontrollable gales. His heart-rending moans were like rumbles coming from the centre of the Earth. The hot streams coming down the lofty Mount were his tears. In the Caucasian ethos, the protagonist is released from captivity by another Nart hero. It is only upon the influence of Judeo-Christian mythology that the chained hero is transformed into a saviour of humanity. There is also a connection with the Muslim legend of al-Maseeh (or al-’A’war, “The False Messiah”) these myths, changed whenever a new religion became popular.

After having a “geek out” in the book stores, we saw a few monuments. They weren’t anything fancy, just a statue to the Dostoyevsky and to the Soviet Army, a memorial to the Great Patriotic War. Cherkess’s older districts are a very beautiful, dating by to the 1850’s. The city was originally settled in 1804 as a Russian military fort on the Kuban River, the second geographic line that sets the northwestern most border of the “historic” North Caucasus, a barrier of Russian and Cossacks on one side and Caucasian peoples on the other. Russian troops took these region from Ottoman influence after they defended an army of Batal Pasha. In honor of the victory, Russian general Ivan Ivanovich Hermannn von Fersen named the city Batalpashinskaya. The settlement was founded as a Kuban Cossack stanitsa (a Cossack village that is also a military barracks). The name Cherkessk, was officially recognized as the city’s new name in 1825 and was still a Cossack stanitsa until 1888. During the early Soviet Era, Cherkessk become the administrative center of the Karachey-Cherkess Autonomous Oblast, later becoming a Autonomous Republic in 1991 after the collapse of the Soviet Union. In reality, the city is more Russian and Cossack then it is Karachey, and Circassians (Cherkess/Adyghe) are a minority of a minority, but they are very proud and are easy to find.

Anna and I really enjoyed ourselves and I’m glad I have the time and opportunity to visit this city. I also bought another piece of my cherkesska, a black kabalakhi (a hood, separate form the robes). It now completes my regalia and I’m excited to put it all together. When I retuned by to Pyatigorsk, things were uneventful at first. The 23rd of February is a holiday in Russian called “Defenders of the Fatherland,” a kind of veteran’s day for the Russians. So we had a lovely four day weekend. My friend Elberd had the opportunity to come to Pyatigorsk for his work and take the holiday weekend there, so he and I spent all of Sunday together. It was good to spend with him. We talked about each other’s families, our thoughts about the changes in Caucasian politicians (both the presidents of Chechnya and Karachey-Chekessia are on their last year in office), and of course we chatted about Kabarda and all that fun stuff. He picked me up in his car, and drove us to the city of Zheleznovodsk, a small town about 15 miles north of Pyatigorsk, on the other side of Mount Beshtau. Founded in 1810, the city was and is a sanatorium and specialized in mineral water health and baths (like many of the towns in the region). In 1841, Mikhail Lermontov spent his last day in Zheleznovodsk, from where he departed to his fatal duel on the slopes of Mount Malshuk in Pyatigorsk. Zheleznovodsk has a mosque, several markets, the sanatorium, an opera house, and a large pleasure garden that reminded me a lot of the Summer Palace at Peterhof in Saint Petersburg.

After an enjoyable afternoon of sightseeing and walking, we then headed back to Pyatigorsk to drop off our things, including my bag of freshly baked lukum, that Elberd’s mother or grandmother had made for me. I’m so thankfully to the Kotsev’s for their hospitality and kindness, bringing me in as one of their own. A few hours later, we got a gyro and then went to the pub. Our friends Vovo and Arman joined us and we started to drink beer and joke around. Elberd asked me about my thoughts concerning Syria and the situation with Turkey. We’re both happy to hear the negotiations going on among Russia, the U.S. and Assad. We both hope a cease-fire is on the way, but naturally we both have our reservations. Vova was interested in hearing about my international friends in the obshaga, so I called Diogo down to the pub and when he arrived, we really got the drinking started. It was a really enjoyable evening and I’m so glad that Elberd and I can hang when he is free. Working at the Circassian Reparations Administration in Nalchik has been successful for him and he gets to travel a lot.

Adding to the fun of last weekend, we celebrated Alina’s 21st birthday. It was so fun. Vika had arranged a lot to make it happen. Alina was ill for a part of last week and had to cancel her birthday plans, but Vika would take no for an answer. Vika, Maddie, Tolya and I, helped Alina celebrate. Tolya and Vika set up some balloons and cooked a wide assortment of Russian dishes. Maddie ordered two pizzas and I brought the majority of the beer for the nights festivities. We had a feast. Vika had arranged one of the tables in the room to be a center place for all of us to gather around. I gave the first toast to Alina, to her to, for success in her life, and to her friendship. We ate, then gave toasts, ate and gave toasts. Truly, one of my favorite things to do, spend time with good friends, eat good food, and toast to them. We laughed, talked and laughed some more. We even played spin the bottle at the party, a hilarious event indeed. I hope Alina had just as great a time as we did (I’m sure she did). We also did presents and the like, so it felt the way birthdays should.

After last weekend, things around here got a little dull. We had no classes on Monday and Tuesday because of the holiday. So, I rested on these days. It was good to have a break, but at the same time, it put me back “in holiday mode” and it would be nice to have a full set of school days. On top of this, our faculty had it’s 35th anniversary on Friday, so the last few days have been nothing be practice for the concourse. I danced lezginka again at the concourse and all the foreign students are translated a phrase from Russian to our native language and presenting it at the event. It is a simple thing, but never-the-less, we’ve had to practice for it. Practicing, again and again and on top of that, no classes. I was looking forward to telling the story of “Paul Bunyan and Babe the Blue Ox,” in Russian, but alas, I have to wait until next Thursday. We did have a good time at the concourse and it was interesting to see some of our teachers 35 years ago, when our faculty was established. Students becoming teachers, a strange, but cool moment.

Last but not least, Anna, Maddie and I went to Nalchik. I was on a missing to pick up my boots and it was wonderful to have the companion, and Anna and I always love returning for a visit. We left in yesterday in the morning and spent most of the day there. It was Maddie’s first time in Nalchik for it was a treat to tell her about some of the history behind the city and the people who call it home. We saw several of the Soviet monuments and Circassian memorials in the city, ate a huge meal at the Circassian/Turkish restaurant that Anna and I went to during our last trip, and we had a long, delightful walk in Nalchik’s park. We had a good moment talking to several Kabardian men who we encounter at a coffee stand. They were very kind and though it was interesting having foreigners in Nalchik who were well informed about the place. The mocha I had was also very good. Lunch is always I favorite part of any adventure (I dare say it is Anna’s favorite was well). The monti was so good with red pepper, how I love Turkish spices. Before we left, I picked up my boots. I’m very happy with the pair I ended up getting and their fit nicely. I just need to walk in them often, to stretch up the leather. Their knee high and for good for dancing and walk. I was surprised how comfortable they are. I wore them to dinner at Neapolitano, showing them off and beginning the stretching process. Diogo, Jeanne, Sara, Christophe, Alizee, Maddie, Vika and I went up together and it was fun to drink and talk. Christophe take some awesome photos that night (I think that maybe he should think about going pro).

Well, that’s all for now friends and neighbors. I’m so happy to have all of the elements of the cherkesska now. A huge thanks to Anna and Elberd for both their help and recommendations during this process. On a side note, I want to give my condolences to Anna and her family for the loss of her grand father. I thoughts and prayers go to you. From Russian with regards.

Events and Reunions

On February 14, 2016 By de TuttlevilleLeave a comment

Hello, everyone. I hope you’re all doing well. Classes have finally started back up again. A week and a half of all of Russia being in a “Classless State (yay of puns),” as taking its toll, both sadly and happily. During the break, I had the opportunity to go to the mountains and to Nalchik again, so it wasn’t a wasted time. It is a shame though that we have missed this many days of classes, but viruses don’t care. Thankfully, the quarantine was just imposed on the university and not on the dorms, because if it was, the obshaga would have become a literal prison. Gulags for everyone. Yes, I’m having too much fun with this. It was both a boring and eventful time. The weather lately, has reflected this duality. We have had both warm spells and cold spells. I think the spring is on it’s way. Last week, all the snow melted, but this week it snowed again. Mother nature is trying to figure out her mood. It feels like spring, though I’m not complaining.

Taking advantage of the last week of quarantine, as well as the good weather, Anna and I traveled to Nalchik for another visit. I do really enjoy going to the capital of Kabardino-Balkaria, and experiencing the culture of an ethnic-group that I find very interesting. It was so good to travel with Anna as she loves this culture as much and need ever more than I do (as here boyfriend is of Circassian descent), so we have a lot of bond over. It is wonderful to talk with her about her experiences and observations about Kabardino-Balkaria and the Greater Circassian culture. The weather was so nice, warm and sunny, with chilly air. It was hard to believe that Nalchik was covered in snow two weeks before. It felt like early spring, or late fall. Birds were singing in Atazhukinsky Park, as we walked around. The park in Nalchik is one of the largest in the Caucasus, and it is filled with monuments to the various poets from the regions and the ancient Nart Sagas, a series of legends about the Narts (Herculean-like heroes, who do incredible deeds), who are well known and shared amongst most ethnic groups in the North Caucasus. These Sagas are the “Greek Mythology of the Caucasus.” We had wanted to go and visit the Kizilovka Mountain on the chairlift and see the restaurant, that is made into the head of the great, Nart hero Sosruko, but the lift was closed for the day, so we just ended up taking a rest near the lake at the base of the mountain.

We talked for a while during our rest and afterwords headed to the old shop where I get my Circassian memorabilia, purchasing a white version of my Cherkess t-shirt. Anna also wanted to find a book the Nart Sagas in Russian while we were there, but also we unsuccessful. We were very hunger after our walk and wanted to find a restaurant that served very traditional Kabardian cuisine. We ended up finding a nice place not far for the center of town, that had a Western-style of decor (as Anna and I described, it wasn’t very Caucasian in look), and the service and food were amazing. I think this is the best service at a restaurant that I’ve ever had in Russia. The Russians don’t put an emphasis on service so on a good day your needs will be met. The concept of tipping here is also foreign and I argument for tipping is that one will get better service, when a server “works” for their tip, not messing up my order and arriving in a timely matter to ask how the food is and if I need anything else. Our waiter was a very kind and attentive Kabardian man, proving once again that Kabardian hospitality is second to none. I ordered on of Kabarda’s most prized dishes, gedlibzhe, a chicken dish with a rich white, cream sauce. Like most meals in the Caucasus, the dish will be a little different by region and more importantly, in regards to who cooks it. I’ve always had gedlibzhe and Elberd’s home, his grandmother and mother making it with a thick cream sauce and it appears orange, almost red in color in that their family puts a lot of paprika into the dish. My gedlibzhe at this restaurant had little spice in it, a different variety of the dish that I’d had yet to try. I like it and it seemed more rich than the gedlibzhe I’ve had the Kotsev home, but I prefer the Kotsev’s version of the recipe, as I like more spice.

This restaurant was very interesting in that Anna and I got to see first hand the complex nature and origins of not just Kabardian cuisine, but also of the Kabardian people themselves (and in a larger sense the Circassians). The owners of the restaurant spoke not only Russian and Kabardian, but also, Turkish. Anna not very excited as she is learning Turkish and the university and speaks in very well, at least in my opinion. It was so fun to hear them switch for language to language, when talking to each other and it their customers. Turkish culture, as had a large influence on the local peoples of the Caucasus because of the trade, wars and movement of peoples within this region over the last five-hundred years. They served a lot of Turkish dishes at the restaurant as well and Anna and I had both had an order of Turkish monti, smaller versions of the Caucasian monti, served either with red or black pepper. It was very good, but I think I prefer the Caucasian monti, in that they’re more moist and the meat within them tastes better that way. It is nice to see that not all enclaves of Turkish culture within Russian have been targeted by the media or by the police. With the political situation the way it is, I doubt that any progress in relations between the two countries will improve, so it is up to the Russians who have Turkish links, or heritage to continue cultural exchanges.

We were so full from our lunch. Kabardian cuisine is hardy and I can’t image that I’ve eaten at Elberd’s home, all the food that was given me, because as I get older, it is becoming more difficult. Anna and I decided to take another walk to work off all the food we had consumed, a very smart decision on our part. We were in Nalchik for the specific goal of ordering me a pair of boots and pants to complete my cherkesska. Nalchik is one of the few cities that have master craftsmen who specialize in these types f boots, so it was very important that we did this during our last visit. After much searching and getting advice from a local taxi driver, we arrived an apartment building that had been converted into a cherkesska making workshop. Different floors by different assignments involved the making of the national regalia. I was looking for a pair of black boots that were about knee length in height. It was different to find a pair of boots, without getting a custom fitting, as my feet fit into several pairs, but my calf-muscles are to big, the physic of many Caucasian men, being that of “stick legs.” So, not only I get my feet measured, but I also got my calfs measured, an interesting experience to be sure. I got my fitting down, the whole deal only costing 2,000 rubles. I was told that the boots should be ready in a week, so I’ll wait on a call from the cobblers and return to Nalchik to pick them up. I also got my pants, black in color, noting to ridiculous and a head scarf, a piece of the regalia worn when dancing lezginka, specifically in dances that feature sword fights. I’m so looking forward to having the whole of the cherkesska assembled and to take photos.

After returning from Nalchik, classes seemed to fall into place again, the quarantine being lifted and all. In other news, the microwave on our floor was stolen. What possessed someone to go and “jack” and thing is beyond me, be living in Russia for two years as taught to not be as surprised at these things as I would have been, before having my journeys here. So in response, the lock on the door was replaced and we were given a new key, which then preceded to go “walkies.” It has yet to be found. Alex was kind enough to go get copies so hopefully this other one wouldn’t be misplaced. So, we now have no microwave and no washing machine. At least life here is not boring. We have all taken the appropriate steps, putting all cooks items, including pots and pans in our block, so they won’t disappear. Reheating food in a pan, isn’t the end of the world, and living without it is on a way liberating. We’ve had a new student move to our floor. Her name is Alizee and she is from Belgium. She seems very nice from my interactions with her so far. We all had some time together at on of the many pubs we visit and that night was enjoyable, however French and Spanish were the languages of the night, so I was “hosed” as it were. At least there was beer and tasty sandwiches. I learned a lot of South American politics and their love of football from Gabriel, the new student from Ecuador.

We also had an interesting moment with my peers and one of our teachers/faculty sponsors last week. On Thursday, Nina Orlova had us star in a promotional video for the university, featuring foreigners learning Russian. A camera crew came to our faculty and took a lot of photos, and Alina Tkachenko, the women who invited me on her radio show was there, asking us questions about why we studied Russian and the like. It was a staged event, a promotion of the university, but most of us were happy to help our faculty out. They take very good care of us and fight the bureaucracy and red type within the university on our behalf. I can’t give Nina enough credit for all the support and help she gives us, as we like to say, “Nina’s mama.” Later that afternoon, we had lunch with her, the camera crew fellowing us to Neapolitano. Gabriel commented that it was “like we’re in a reality TV show.” Diogo and I learned at the situation. While waiting for our drinks, we decided to play a game of Russian charades and I acting out Vladimir Putin for kicks and giggles, making body-builder poses and frowning faces. We had a good time. I also got to talk to Nina about a few schedule changes I wanted and my concerns about a few classes and we togethers have begin to rearrange my classes.

We also had the “He and She” concert last Friday evening. One of the most popular student events the university, “He and She” is a competition between the various faculties of the university to see who can win the title of “He and She.” The premise is one male and one female student are voted by their peers within their faculty and represent they faculty in the contest. They do this by deciding on a theme for their performance and doing three sections, an opening, and middle performance and an ending, telling a story about love. It was fun to watch the concert this time around, as during my first year, I represented my faculty, singing “I Love You Baby” with Ksenia. It was great to see the various themes that evening, ranging from “George of the Jungle,” to “Bonnie and Clyde,” and the “Joker with Harley Quinn.” The performances were very enjoying to watch, “George of the Jungle”taking first place, fellowed by the “Joker and Harley” getting “the crowd favorite.”

The highlight of the light, was that my old friend Maddy is with us again. I had heard through the rumor mill that she was visiting, but I was pleasantly stocked when she said she was staying until June. It is good to get the old band together again, Alina, Vika, Maddy and I turning Pyatigorsk upside down again. We took a walk around Malshuk and we all caught up on lost time, having dinner at Neapolitano. This new development is going make second semester far more enjoyable then I had originally imagined. Yay of surprises. On the walk get to Alina and Vika’s dorm, we recreated our photo that take their two years ago. It was a wonderful, my mind being flooded with good memories. Such a happy reunion.

Well, friends that’s all here for the moment. I wish you the best and Happy Valentine’s Day to you. I hope you day is filled with love, friendship, fun and laughter. From Russia with love.

Journey to Arkhyz

On February 3, 2016 By de TuttlevilleLeave a comment

It’s the February already and we have started this leap year off very well. I know that I must say this in many of my blogs, but seriously, time is flying by so quickly. Before I know it, I’ll be heading for home, the month of June slapping me in the face. It has snowed off and on during these past few days, most of it melting by the end of the day. The high elevation and warmer temperatures are making it difficult for the white powder to stay. Last week, we had a “Narnia-like” atmosphere and now it feels like April, with it being 38 degrees out and muddy roads. Mountain weather is ever changing, and we aren’t even in the mountains, more like the “Front Range” as Taylor calls it. I hope that the snow will remain a little while longer, but if good, old Punxsutawney is to be believed, we are in for an early spring this year.

Things have been very interesting here. The first week of classes was good all in all. However, we haven’t been to classes in last week because we have been in quarantine. The university grounds have been closed to limit the spread of a new swine-influenza that is ravaging Russia. According to the BBC, 38% of the citizens living in Moscow have been infected with the virus and within a matter of weeks, people in Saint Petersburg, Rostov and even within Stavropol had caught the bug. Vika and Alina had told me that the virus had claimed the lives of several people with the Stavropol Krai region. This thing has gotten the Russian authorities in a jam, mandating that all universities within the Russian Federation close, to prevent students from getting ill. This strain of influenza is effecting young adults more so then the elderly or young children. I’ve been limiting my usage of the public transportation and the shops to limit getting ill. So far, I’ve been successful.

To pass the time by Vika, Alina and I have been hanging out, putting in some episodes of “Downton Abbey.” Vika’s boyfriend Tolya, was here for the week/weekend and it has good to see him again. We chatted about history and Russian societal norms, over cups of tea. We also ate a lot of food (all thanks goes to Vika and here wonderful potato with drill soup). Quarantine has made live interesting because all the free time on our hands. Vika had been planning a trip for she and Tolya during last week, time for them to bond after his year long tour in the army. Vika as kind effort to invite Alina and I with them to the ski resort of Arkhyz. The Arkhyz Mountain region is located in the Republic of Karachey-Cherkessia and is famous all over the Russian Federation for it’s natural mineral water in the summer and it’s beautiful, snowy slopes. People from all over the world go snow boarding and skiing in the North Caucasus Mountains, Arkhyz, being on of the most popular. The altitude here exceeds three-thousand feet. In the Karachay language, Arkhyz means “a beautiful girl.”

Vika payed for the trip through a program for Alpinists, based in Pyatigorsk. It the trip was $15 per person and it was a good deal, as it including the marshot ride there and back. The catch was that we had to be up and ready to go by 04:30, meaning we had to get up at 03:30 if we wanted to eat breakfast. I decided to sleep earlier that evening before the trip. I went to bed at 19:00 that evening to catch up on rest. I woke up at 03:30. ate so oatmeal and gotten myself ready for the mountains. Vika, Tolya and I took a taxi to the bus station, Alina soon followed us a little later. We were the first people to wait at the station, so we chatted for a while. I was trying to speak in Russian for most of the day, so I could get in better practice. Starting the day off in only Russian was very difficult, as I hadn’t had any coffee that morning and my “language wires” weren’t working very well. I’ve noticed that there are some days that are better than others when speaking another language, and this was one of those days.

As more people began to show up, I watched Alina, Tolya and Vika’s reactions to them. Many were sportsmen, experienced in snowboarding and other winter sports. I noticed something that I hadn’t had seen before while in Russia. Most of the people, were very open when talking to each other. It was normal for me to see Russians never engage in conservations with strangers, but here these 20-somethings were chatting it up like nobodies business. I was really taken off guard. Don’t get me wrong I was pleased to see this other side of Russians, but in was surprising none the less. I was a little shy that early in the morning, still trying to wake up and get my languages straight. A snowboarder by the name of Sasha, commented on my ushanka, saying that I was “very Russian.” Alina then said that it “was funny because I was American,” and I got a little miffed at her. I don’t like drawing attention to myself, especially in situations in larger groups of people on a little bus. We boarded the marshot, and started our three hour ride there. The sun wasn’t up yet and it was chilly, but I was determined to stay awake in order to see the country side.

I listened to lezginka on the way, as the others on the marshot slept. I also listen to lezginka and other Caucasian tunes during my travels to the mountains, getting myself in the “spirit of things.” The geography on this side of Karachey-Cherkessia was amazing to look at. We were traveling 50 miles west of Dombai, on the Zelenchukskaya Plateau, a region of pink stoned mesas, rolling hills and canyons. As the first rays of light from the sun came rising over the hills, the colors really began to show. The light was a cold light, blue with hints of yellow. The stars still shining in the early morning, glittered like gems in the morning darkness. The darkness slowly receded into a wonderful array of orange, red and yellow light was the sun finally got over the hills. I was enjoying the scenery, when the marshot turned a corner on the road very quickly. I became very concerned, as the driver was going too fast for the road conditions (snow was in icy layers in the road) and the road was looping around the hills like a serpent. At least I was calm in the knowledge that in Georgia, the drivers are far more crazy.

The landscape breaks into a flat plain called Leso Kyafar, before the Arkhyz Range. Many towns are shattered throughout this area, small farming communities and ranchers, with a healthy mix of Alpine tourism (in this case Caucasian tourism). We drove through this region and into the pathways through the mountains. This area reminded me a lot of Silt, Colorado (Taylor’s hometown). The rock faces within the gorges were very sharp and were also similar to the canyons of Kabardino-Balkaria and North Ossetia. On the way to Arkhyz, we stopped at a very small mountain village. This place had maybe thirty people living in it maximum and it reminded me for one of the old pioneer outposts of the 1820’s. The buildings were log cabins, large stacks of firewood in the corners. The main cabin was a lodge filled with chairs and benches of all shapes. A cast-iron stove from at least the last century was in the back of the lodge, with a bolted smoke stack raised into the ceiling. The back room had three Karachey women cooking a baking a variety of foods. The older of the three women was in charge, telling the others what to do. She would take some of the orders and their tell the younger girl what to do. It was like the other women were apprenticing under her.

I ordered a khichiney (one of the national dishes of the Karachey ethnicity, you may remember this food from my blog about Dombai) with cheese for a second breakfast as I was very hunger after our three hour journey. It was a great experience to eat this variety of the pie, because it was less of a pie and more like a pastry, stuffed with “chevre-like” cheese. I really like this type of khichiney and it was interesting to see how different the pie can be by region and household. The rest was good and the food was very filled, as is most Caucasian cuisine. There was no running water in this village so people had to get their water from the river and the toilet was a triangular hole in the ground. A mix of soap and snow was used to wash one’s hands. We got back on the marshot and drove another 30 minutes to the resort. The Arkhyz Range was beautiful, white capped mountains touched the crystal clear sky, rising like sentinels. The snow was in some places 4 to 5 feet deep and it was a huge difference from the snow fall in Pyatigorsk. The parking lot of the resort was an icy mess and it was good to get off of the road and away from that crazy driver.

Arkhyz is a “European-style” ski resort and is one of the most prized in the Caucasus because of its location in western Karachey-Cherkessia, it’s yearly snow fall and its slopes for skiing and snow boarding. Vika and Tolya were set on snow boarding and get their equipment in Pyatigorsk before we left. Alina and I didn’t go skiing or boarding as it was last minute for Alina and I wanted my first time skiing or snow boarding to be with Taylor, so Alina and I walked around the resort and talked for most of the day. It was good because Alina and I got some time to talk individually and Vika and Tolya got to do the same, Alina and I in the process not being third or fourth wheels. We split up, Vika and Tolya going up to the green colored ski run, while Alina and I spoke with Sasha for a while. I was very good practice in Russian, but my brain started to cave in during the afternoon. Alina and I played “I spy,” Alina asking the questions in English, and I asked the questions in Russian. Alina and I then took the cable car up to the top of Mount Arkhyz. On top of the mountain, the view was beautiful, breath taking in fact. I could see for miles across the Range, all of the mountains having their own unique shapes and peaks. We took many photos on the summit and shared a drink together. I really enjoyed having a Paulaner at 3,318 meters. I wonderful moment on top of the world. It was so beautiful up there.

Vika then called Alina and summoned us to the base of the mountain, so we could exchange our ski passes, as they wanted another go on the slopes. We met them by a cafe, chatted a little, I shared some apples that I brought with me and we split up again. Vika and Tolya were enjoying snow boarding down the slopes, Vika teaching Tolya, being his first time on a snow board. Alina and I headed over to a cafe that we had visited earlier. It was a small stand in a local market at the base, near the main resort structure. Karachey women were selling food, drink, and various souvenirs. One women specifically, was baking khichiney and brewing homemade mulled wine. We came back to this women because the mulled wine she made was so good and she was very kind. We had a sample of her wine earlier, a boiled, red wine with and cinnamon and cardamon. We got our wine and our khichiney, sitting down by a table close to the woman’s stand. The khichiney this time around was very good as well, a little different from the one I had had several hours earlier. The pastry dough was thicker and the cheese was shredded. There was also homemade sour cream with the dish, that made it up, as my saying goes, “everything is better with smetana.” Alina and I talked together for most of the afternoon, it was good to see her relaxed and more like herself, blowing off steam with a friend. What are friends for?

We met up once more to prepare for leaving at the end of the day. The light of the sun was fading over the peaks of the Arkhyz Range, summoning us to return to the marshot. The bus was loaded with everyone’s equipment and bodies slowly started to pack inside. It was a wonderful day and experience and I’m so thankful to Vika for inviting me and planning the trip. It was good to be heading back to Pyatigorsk though, as I was tired and it was getting cold after the sun had set. We stopped at that little village again to eat and freshen up, so I got another khichiney with potatoes and lagman soup. Three khichiney in one day, a success in of itself I think. We returned at around 21:30 and I was happy to have a nice, hot shower and went to bed early that day. The next day Vika, Alina and I went over to Amber’s apartment and met with Brandi and her husband Austin. Brandi and I studied together two years ago, Vika, Alina, Brandi and I hanging out most of the time. It was good to catch up with her.

Well, that is all that is going on here. Anna and I have dance lessons this evening, so it will be nice to had something to do in the evenings, especially since the quarantine was in acted. From Russia with regards everyone.

	William Rimkunas on Week 1, Back in 5gorsk
	Bob Scott on Week 1, Back in 5gorsk