Hello, everyone. I hope you’re all doing well. Classes have finally started back up again. A week and a half of all of Russia being in a “Classless State (yay of puns),” as taking its toll, both sadly and happily. During the break, I had the opportunity to go to the mountains and to Nalchik again, so it wasn’t a wasted time. It is a shame though that we have missed this many days of classes, but viruses don’t care. Thankfully, the quarantine was just imposed on the university and not on the dorms, because if it was, the obshaga would have become a literal prison. Gulags for everyone. Yes, I’m having too much fun with this. It was both a boring and eventful time. The weather lately, has reflected this duality. We have had both warm spells and cold spells. I think the spring is on it’s way. Last week, all the snow melted, but this week it snowed again. Mother nature is trying to figure out her mood. It feels like spring, though I’m not complaining.
Taking advantage of the last week of quarantine, as well as the good weather, Anna and I traveled to Nalchik for another visit. I do really enjoy going to the capital of Kabardino-Balkaria, and experiencing the culture of an ethnic-group that I find very interesting. It was so good to travel with Anna as she loves this culture as much and need ever more than I do (as here boyfriend is of Circassian descent), so we have a lot of bond over. It is wonderful to talk with her about her experiences and observations about Kabardino-Balkaria and the Greater Circassian culture. The weather was so nice, warm and sunny, with chilly air. It was hard to believe that Nalchik was covered in snow two weeks before. It felt like early spring, or late fall. Birds were singing in Atazhukinsky Park, as we walked around. The park in Nalchik is one of the largest in the Caucasus, and it is filled with monuments to the various poets from the regions and the ancient Nart Sagas, a series of legends about the Narts (Herculean-like heroes, who do incredible deeds), who are well known and shared amongst most ethnic groups in the North Caucasus. These Sagas are the “Greek Mythology of the Caucasus.” We had wanted to go and visit the Kizilovka Mountain on the chairlift and see the restaurant, that is made into the head of the great, Nart hero Sosruko, but the lift was closed for the day, so we just ended up taking a rest near the lake at the base of the mountain.
We talked for a while during our rest and afterwords headed to the old shop where I get my Circassian memorabilia, purchasing a white version of my Cherkess t-shirt. Anna also wanted to find a book the Nart Sagas in Russian while we were there, but also we unsuccessful. We were very hunger after our walk and wanted to find a restaurant that served very traditional Kabardian cuisine. We ended up finding a nice place not far for the center of town, that had a Western-style of decor (as Anna and I described, it wasn’t very Caucasian in look), and the service and food were amazing. I think this is the best service at a restaurant that I’ve ever had in Russia. The Russians don’t put an emphasis on service so on a good day your needs will be met. The concept of tipping here is also foreign and I argument for tipping is that one will get better service, when a server “works” for their tip, not messing up my order and arriving in a timely matter to ask how the food is and if I need anything else. Our waiter was a very kind and attentive Kabardian man, proving once again that Kabardian hospitality is second to none. I ordered on of Kabarda’s most prized dishes, gedlibzhe, a chicken dish with a rich white, cream sauce. Like most meals in the Caucasus, the dish will be a little different by region and more importantly, in regards to who cooks it. I’ve always had gedlibzhe and Elberd’s home, his grandmother and mother making it with a thick cream sauce and it appears orange, almost red in color in that their family puts a lot of paprika into the dish. My gedlibzhe at this restaurant had little spice in it, a different variety of the dish that I’d had yet to try. I like it and it seemed more rich than the gedlibzhe I’ve had the Kotsev home, but I prefer the Kotsev’s version of the recipe, as I like more spice.
This restaurant was very interesting in that Anna and I got to see first hand the complex nature and origins of not just Kabardian cuisine, but also of the Kabardian people themselves (and in a larger sense the Circassians). The owners of the restaurant spoke not only Russian and Kabardian, but also, Turkish. Anna not very excited as she is learning Turkish and the university and speaks in very well, at least in my opinion. It was so fun to hear them switch for language to language, when talking to each other and it their customers. Turkish culture, as had a large influence on the local peoples of the Caucasus because of the trade, wars and movement of peoples within this region over the last five-hundred years. They served a lot of Turkish dishes at the restaurant as well and Anna and I had both had an order of Turkish monti, smaller versions of the Caucasian monti, served either with red or black pepper. It was very good, but I think I prefer the Caucasian monti, in that they’re more moist and the meat within them tastes better that way. It is nice to see that not all enclaves of Turkish culture within Russian have been targeted by the media or by the police. With the political situation the way it is, I doubt that any progress in relations between the two countries will improve, so it is up to the Russians who have Turkish links, or heritage to continue cultural exchanges.
We were so full from our lunch. Kabardian cuisine is hardy and I can’t image that I’ve eaten at Elberd’s home, all the food that was given me, because as I get older, it is becoming more difficult. Anna and I decided to take another walk to work off all the food we had consumed, a very smart decision on our part. We were in Nalchik for the specific goal of ordering me a pair of boots and pants to complete my cherkesska. Nalchik is one of the few cities that have master craftsmen who specialize in these types f boots, so it was very important that we did this during our last visit. After much searching and getting advice from a local taxi driver, we arrived an apartment building that had been converted into a cherkesska making workshop. Different floors by different assignments involved the making of the national regalia. I was looking for a pair of black boots that were about knee length in height. It was different to find a pair of boots, without getting a custom fitting, as my feet fit into several pairs, but my calf-muscles are to big, the physic of many Caucasian men, being that of “stick legs.” So, not only I get my feet measured, but I also got my calfs measured, an interesting experience to be sure. I got my fitting down, the whole deal only costing 2,000 rubles. I was told that the boots should be ready in a week, so I’ll wait on a call from the cobblers and return to Nalchik to pick them up. I also got my pants, black in color, noting to ridiculous and a head scarf, a piece of the regalia worn when dancing lezginka, specifically in dances that feature sword fights. I’m so looking forward to having the whole of the cherkesska assembled and to take photos.
After returning from Nalchik, classes seemed to fall into place again, the quarantine being lifted and all. In other news, the microwave on our floor was stolen. What possessed someone to go and “jack” and thing is beyond me, be living in Russia for two years as taught to not be as surprised at these things as I would have been, before having my journeys here. So in response, the lock on the door was replaced and we were given a new key, which then preceded to go “walkies.” It has yet to be found. Alex was kind enough to go get copies so hopefully this other one wouldn’t be misplaced. So, we now have no microwave and no washing machine. At least life here is not boring. We have all taken the appropriate steps, putting all cooks items, including pots and pans in our block, so they won’t disappear. Reheating food in a pan, isn’t the end of the world, and living without it is on a way liberating. We’ve had a new student move to our floor. Her name is Alizee and she is from Belgium. She seems very nice from my interactions with her so far. We all had some time together at on of the many pubs we visit and that night was enjoyable, however French and Spanish were the languages of the night, so I was “hosed” as it were. At least there was beer and tasty sandwiches. I learned a lot of South American politics and their love of football from Gabriel, the new student from Ecuador.
We also had an interesting moment with my peers and one of our teachers/faculty sponsors last week. On Thursday, Nina Orlova had us star in a promotional video for the university, featuring foreigners learning Russian. A camera crew came to our faculty and took a lot of photos, and Alina Tkachenko, the women who invited me on her radio show was there, asking us questions about why we studied Russian and the like. It was a staged event, a promotion of the university, but most of us were happy to help our faculty out. They take very good care of us and fight the bureaucracy and red type within the university on our behalf. I can’t give Nina enough credit for all the support and help she gives us, as we like to say, “Nina’s mama.” Later that afternoon, we had lunch with her, the camera crew fellowing us to Neapolitano. Gabriel commented that it was “like we’re in a reality TV show.” Diogo and I learned at the situation. While waiting for our drinks, we decided to play a game of Russian charades and I acting out Vladimir Putin for kicks and giggles, making body-builder poses and frowning faces. We had a good time. I also got to talk to Nina about a few schedule changes I wanted and my concerns about a few classes and we togethers have begin to rearrange my classes.
We also had the “He and She” concert last Friday evening. One of the most popular student events the university, “He and She” is a competition between the various faculties of the university to see who can win the title of “He and She.” The premise is one male and one female student are voted by their peers within their faculty and represent they faculty in the contest. They do this by deciding on a theme for their performance and doing three sections, an opening, and middle performance and an ending, telling a story about love. It was fun to watch the concert this time around, as during my first year, I represented my faculty, singing “I Love You Baby” with Ksenia. It was great to see the various themes that evening, ranging from “George of the Jungle,” to “Bonnie and Clyde,” and the “Joker with Harley Quinn.” The performances were very enjoying to watch, “George of the Jungle”taking first place, fellowed by the “Joker and Harley” getting “the crowd favorite.”
The highlight of the light, was that my old friend Maddy is with us again. I had heard through the rumor mill that she was visiting, but I was pleasantly stocked when she said she was staying until June. It is good to get the old band together again, Alina, Vika, Maddy and I turning Pyatigorsk upside down again. We took a walk around Malshuk and we all caught up on lost time, having dinner at Neapolitano. This new development is going make second semester far more enjoyable then I had originally imagined. Yay of surprises. On the walk get to Alina and Vika’s dorm, we recreated our photo that take their two years ago. It was a wonderful, my mind being flooded with good memories. Such a happy reunion.
Well, friends that’s all here for the moment. I wish you the best and Happy Valentine’s Day to you. I hope you day is filled with love, friendship, fun and laughter. From Russia with love.
Pub and Politics 