Cherkessk, Zheleznovodsk and Fun Moments with Friends

As February comes to a close, I feel that the end of my time here in Pyatigork is getting closer. After February, only four more months, how could the time have pasted by so quickly. I think it is because I’ve been having so much fun and experiencing much more during my second year here. Pyatigorsk has been the best place to study Russian, at least for me, because of its location and the sense of community that the university has. I’ve been very likely to have the friends that I’ve made here both Russian and International, as well as having the resources and support the university can give. The weather has also been a very pleasant surprise, as the stereotypical cold of February as been replaced by an early spring. It was 61 degrees last Wednesday and it is predicted to be 70 this coming Wednesday. I’m shocked at this warm front, but I can’t complain, as it makes traveling around the Caucasus easier and more pleasant.

During the middle of February, the weather sea-sawed between winter and spring. It snowed then melted, and snowed again. It is remarkable to witness the changes in weather within a 50 kilometer area. Anna and I went to the city of Cherkessk, the capital of the Autonomous Republic of Karachey-Cherkessia (hopefully a recognizable name, to me regular readers). I’ve had the opportunity to travel many time to this Republic on my second time around and it is been interesting to see the similarities and differences between it and Kabardino-Balkaria. Both Republics have Circassian inhabitance, but are unique both historically and culturally. Anna is a native of Karachey-Cherkessia, living in a small mountain village. Her experiences and knowledge have been invaluable for me in order to understand this region better. Our mutual love of Circassian culture and history has created a loved bond between the both of us during the last six months. I’m very happy to count her as one of my close friends here.

Cherkessk isn’t very far away from Pyatigorsk, in fact it is about as far away from Pyatigorsk as Nalchik is, about an hour drive by marshot. The drive was a little longer this time around because it snowed that morning. It was fascinating to see the change in weather while driving through the rolling hills and trilled fields of this region, the mountains always “smiling” in the back ground. It was good to feel the warm touch of the sun on my face during our journey. It was a stark contrast from the cold and grey skies, hovering over Pyatigorsk. We arrived in Cherkessk during the mid-morning, around 11ish, so naturally we were hungry. Anna had planned ahead and took us to one of her favorite cafes in the city, which she and her father frequent. The cafe was very nice, paintings of the Caucasus Mountains and other Caucasian scenery. It was a Karachey cafe in cuisine and language. Khinchey, monti, and lagmon soup were all on the menu. We both had tea, an order of monti, khinchey with cheese and lavash. I also had lagoon soup, Anna had a cold, white soup, and glass of iyron (liquid sour cream). It was a lot of food and I am ashamed to say that I struggled, I’m not the eating machine that I once was. The food was so good, and Anna and I managed to share the last pieces of her khinchey with beat leaves, though after much pleading by her.

After our delightfully, filling meal, Anna and I took and walk around the center of the town. We worked off some of our food by walking, which was a vey good idea. We stopped by several book shops, looking for tomes on Circassian culture, language, history etc. Anna was also trying to find books in Turkish for she and Jan. I managed to fine a book by English ethnographer and naturalist, Edmond Spencer. Written in the late 1830’s, Spencer traveled much of the North Caucasus and was one of the first English writes to detail the Caucasus and it’s many peoples. Most the of text is in Russian, so it will be a good translation task, but the appendix is filled with English to Circassian (specifically Adyghe) words. It is going to be a great read, a very nice primary source. I’ve also been reading a lot more on the mythology of the Circassian Nation, and it has been a treat to see the cultural and regional uniqueness of these legends while understanding and realizing their similarities to Greek, Judeo-Christian and Muslim stories. The Circassians had their own version of the redemption of the world in the legend of Tilale. This chained hero was supposed to break from his irons chains and come into the world after the people had been stricken with famine. He then cleansed the world with the waters of the seas, and restored life to it. It is told as follows…
The Nart Legend of Tilale translated by Sanjalay A. Jaimoukha
“Because he dared to challenge God and disobey him, he had him seized and chained on top (of the Mountain).
“When it is time for the world to perish, they say that Tilale will break free of his shackles and will come down (to Earth).
“First, the world will be stricken with famine, and people will go through very trying times. Then Tilale will appear, blaring his horn, riding in his carriage full of sweetmeats and bedecked with sparkling jewellery.
“‘He who desires this, let him come to my side! he will tell the people. Then he will invoke a great blizzard, and will sweep the earth with the waters of the seas inundating the world. In this manner, he will restore life to the lost world.
“It was thus that I heard them relate the legend of Tilale.”

The legend is a mix of Caucasian, Greek, Judeo-Christian, and Muslim elements. The redemption theme is found in all these religious traditions. ‘Tilale’ is the Circassian version of the Arabic name “T’alāl;” the Adyghe version is Nesren Zchach’e. Nesren Zchach’e was the Circassian version of Prometheus. Like his Greek counterpart, the Nart hero was accused of hubris and was chained to the top of one of Mount Elbrus’ twin peaks, a vulture pecking at his heart (note in the Greek tale, the birds are eagles, eagles being a symbol of nobility in the Caucasus, the vulture was a suitable replacement). The Earth trembled, his chains knocked against one other, sending sparks as if from striking spears, making thunderous noises. His breath issued forth like uncontrollable gales. His heart-rending moans were like rumbles coming from the centre of the Earth. The hot streams coming down the lofty Mount were his tears. In the Caucasian ethos, the protagonist is released from captivity by another Nart hero. It is only upon the influence of Judeo-Christian mythology that the chained hero is transformed into a saviour of humanity. There is also a connection with the Muslim legend of al-Maseeh (or al-’A’war, “The False Messiah”) these myths, changed whenever a new religion became popular.

After having a “geek out” in the book stores, we saw a few monuments. They weren’t anything fancy, just a statue to the Dostoyevsky and to the Soviet Army, a memorial to the Great Patriotic War. Cherkess’s older districts are a very beautiful, dating by to the 1850’s. The city was originally settled in 1804 as a Russian military fort on the Kuban River, the second geographic line that sets the northwestern most border of the “historic” North Caucasus, a barrier of Russian and Cossacks on one side and Caucasian peoples on the other. Russian troops took these region from Ottoman influence after they defended an army of Batal Pasha. In honor of the victory, Russian general Ivan Ivanovich Hermannn von Fersen named the city Batalpashinskaya. The settlement was founded as a Kuban Cossack stanitsa (a Cossack village that is also a military barracks). The name Cherkessk, was officially recognized as the city’s new name in 1825 and was still a Cossack stanitsa until 1888. During the early Soviet Era, Cherkessk become the administrative center of the Karachey-Cherkess Autonomous Oblast, later becoming a Autonomous Republic in 1991 after the collapse of the Soviet Union. In reality, the city is more Russian and Cossack then it is Karachey, and Circassians (Cherkess/Adyghe) are a minority of a minority, but they are very proud and are easy to find.

Anna and I really enjoyed ourselves and I’m glad I have the time and opportunity to visit this city. I also bought another piece of my cherkesska, a black kabalakhi (a hood, separate form the robes). It now completes my regalia and I’m excited to put it all together. When I retuned by to Pyatigorsk, things were uneventful at first. The 23rd of February is a holiday in Russian called “Defenders of the Fatherland,” a kind of veteran’s day for the Russians. So we had a lovely four day weekend. My friend Elberd had the opportunity to come to Pyatigorsk for his work and take the holiday weekend there, so he and I spent all of Sunday together. It was good to spend with him. We talked about each other’s families, our thoughts about the changes in Caucasian politicians (both the presidents of Chechnya and Karachey-Chekessia are on their last year in office), and of course we chatted about Kabarda and all that fun stuff. He picked me up in his car, and drove us to the city of Zheleznovodsk, a small town about 15 miles north of Pyatigorsk, on the other side of Mount Beshtau. Founded in 1810, the city was and is a sanatorium and specialized in mineral water health and baths (like many of the towns in the region). In 1841, Mikhail Lermontov spent his last day in Zheleznovodsk, from where he departed to his fatal duel on the slopes of Mount Malshuk in Pyatigorsk. Zheleznovodsk has a mosque, several markets, the sanatorium, an opera house, and a large pleasure garden that reminded me a lot of the Summer Palace at Peterhof in Saint Petersburg.

After an enjoyable afternoon of sightseeing and walking, we then headed back to Pyatigorsk to drop off our things, including my bag of freshly baked lukum, that Elberd’s mother or grandmother had made for me. I’m so thankfully to the Kotsev’s for their hospitality and kindness, bringing me in as one of their own. A few hours later, we got a gyro and then went to the pub. Our friends Vovo and Arman joined us and we started to drink beer and joke around. Elberd asked me about my thoughts concerning Syria and the situation with Turkey. We’re both happy to hear the negotiations going on among Russia, the U.S. and Assad. We both hope a cease-fire is on the way, but naturally we both have our reservations. Vova was interested in hearing about my international friends in the obshaga, so I called Diogo down to the pub and when he arrived, we really got the drinking started. It was a really enjoyable evening and I’m so glad that Elberd and I can hang when he is free. Working at the Circassian Reparations Administration in Nalchik has been successful for him and he gets to travel a lot.

Adding to the fun of last weekend, we celebrated Alina’s 21st birthday. It was so fun. Vika had arranged a lot to make it happen. Alina was ill for a part of last week and had to cancel her birthday plans, but Vika would take no for an answer. Vika, Maddie, Tolya and I, helped Alina celebrate. Tolya and Vika set up some balloons and cooked a wide assortment of Russian dishes. Maddie ordered two pizzas and I brought the majority of the beer for the nights festivities. We had a feast. Vika had arranged one of the tables in the room to be a center place for all of us to gather around. I gave the first toast to Alina, to her to, for success in her life, and to her friendship. We ate, then gave toasts, ate and gave toasts. Truly, one of my favorite things to do, spend time with good friends, eat good food, and toast to them. We laughed, talked and laughed some more. We even played spin the bottle at the party, a hilarious event indeed. I hope Alina had just as great a time as we did (I’m sure she did). We also did presents and the like, so it felt the way birthdays should.

After last weekend, things around here got a little dull. We had no classes on Monday and Tuesday because of the holiday. So, I rested on these days. It was good to have a break, but at the same time, it put me back “in holiday mode” and it would be nice to have a full set of school days. On top of this, our faculty had it’s 35th anniversary on Friday, so the last few days have been nothing be practice for the concourse. I danced lezginka again at the concourse and all the foreign students are translated a phrase from Russian to our native language and presenting it at the event. It is a simple thing, but never-the-less, we’ve had to practice for it. Practicing, again and again and on top of that, no classes. I was looking forward to telling the story of “Paul Bunyan and Babe the Blue Ox,” in Russian, but alas, I have to wait until next Thursday. We did have a good time at the concourse and it was interesting to see some of our teachers 35 years ago, when our faculty was established. Students becoming teachers, a strange, but cool moment.

Last but not least, Anna, Maddie and I went to Nalchik. I was on a missing to pick up my boots and it was wonderful to have the companion, and Anna and I always love returning for a visit. We left in yesterday in the morning and spent most of the day there. It was Maddie’s first time in Nalchik for it was a treat to tell her about some of the history behind the city and the people who call it home. We saw several of the Soviet monuments and Circassian memorials in the city, ate a huge meal at the Circassian/Turkish restaurant that Anna and I went to during our last trip, and we had a long, delightful walk in Nalchik’s park. We had a good moment talking to several Kabardian men who we encounter at a coffee stand. They were very kind and though it was interesting having foreigners in Nalchik who were well informed about the place. The mocha I had was also very good. Lunch is always I favorite part of any adventure (I dare say it is Anna’s favorite was well). The monti was so good with red pepper, how I love Turkish spices. Before we left, I picked up my boots. I’m very happy with the pair I ended up getting and their fit nicely. I just need to walk in them often, to stretch up the leather. Their knee high and for good for dancing and walk. I was surprised how comfortable they are. I wore them to dinner at Neapolitano, showing them off and beginning the stretching process. Diogo, Jeanne, Sara, Christophe, Alizee, Maddie, Vika and I went up together and it was fun to drink and talk. Christophe take some awesome photos that night (I think that maybe he should think about going pro).

Well, that’s all for now friends and neighbors. I’m so happy to have all of the elements of the cherkesska now. A huge thanks to Anna and Elberd for both their help and recommendations during this process. On a side note, I want to give my condolences to Anna and her family for the loss of her grand father. I thoughts and prayers go to you. From Russian with regards.

Events and Reunions

Hello, everyone. I hope you’re all doing well. Classes have finally started back up again. A week and a half of all of Russia being in a “Classless State (yay of puns),” as taking its toll, both sadly and happily. During the break, I had the opportunity to go to the mountains and to Nalchik again, so it wasn’t a wasted time. It is a shame though that we have missed this many days of classes, but viruses don’t care. Thankfully, the quarantine was just imposed on the university and not on the dorms, because if it was, the obshaga would have become a literal prison. Gulags for everyone. Yes, I’m having too much fun with this. It was both a boring and eventful time. The weather lately, has reflected this duality. We have had both warm spells and cold spells. I think the spring is on it’s way. Last week, all the snow melted, but this week it snowed again. Mother nature is trying to figure out her mood. It feels like spring, though I’m not complaining.

Taking advantage of the last week of quarantine, as well as the good weather, Anna and I traveled to Nalchik for another visit. I do really enjoy going to the capital of Kabardino-Balkaria, and experiencing the culture of an ethnic-group that I find very interesting. It was so good to travel with Anna as she loves this culture as much and need ever more than I do (as here boyfriend is of Circassian descent), so we have a lot of bond over. It is wonderful to talk with her about her experiences and observations about Kabardino-Balkaria and the Greater Circassian culture. The weather was so nice, warm and sunny, with chilly air. It was hard to believe that Nalchik was covered in snow two weeks before. It felt like early spring, or late fall. Birds were singing in Atazhukinsky Park, as we walked around. The park in Nalchik is one of the largest in the Caucasus, and it is filled with monuments to the various poets from the regions and the ancient Nart Sagas, a series of legends about the Narts (Herculean-like heroes, who do incredible deeds), who are well known and shared amongst most ethnic groups in the North Caucasus. These Sagas are the “Greek Mythology of the Caucasus.” We had wanted to go and visit the Kizilovka Mountain on the chairlift and see the restaurant, that is made into the head of the great, Nart hero Sosruko, but the lift was closed for the day, so we just ended up taking a rest near the lake at the base of the mountain.

We talked for a while during our rest and afterwords headed to the old shop where I get my Circassian memorabilia, purchasing a white version of my Cherkess t-shirt. Anna also wanted to find a book the Nart Sagas in Russian while we were there, but also we unsuccessful. We were very hunger after our walk and wanted to find a restaurant that served very traditional Kabardian cuisine. We ended up finding a nice place not far for the center of town, that had a Western-style of decor (as Anna and I described, it wasn’t very Caucasian in look), and the service and food were amazing. I think this is the best service at a restaurant that I’ve ever had in Russia. The Russians don’t put an emphasis on service so on a good day your needs will be met. The concept of tipping here is also foreign and I argument for tipping is that one will get better service, when a server “works” for their tip, not messing up my order and arriving in a timely matter to ask how the food is and if I need anything else. Our waiter was a very kind and attentive Kabardian man, proving once again that Kabardian hospitality is second to none. I ordered on of Kabarda’s most prized dishes, gedlibzhe, a chicken dish with a rich white, cream sauce. Like most meals in the Caucasus, the dish will be a little different by region and more importantly, in regards to who cooks it. I’ve always had gedlibzhe and Elberd’s home, his grandmother and mother making it with a thick cream sauce and it appears orange, almost red in color in that their family puts a lot of paprika into the dish. My gedlibzhe at this restaurant had little spice in it, a different variety of the dish that I’d had yet to try. I like it and it seemed more rich than the gedlibzhe I’ve had the Kotsev home, but I prefer the Kotsev’s version of the recipe, as I like more spice.

This restaurant was very interesting in that Anna and I got to see first hand the complex nature and origins of not just Kabardian cuisine, but also of the Kabardian people themselves (and in a larger sense the Circassians). The owners of the restaurant spoke not only Russian and Kabardian, but also, Turkish. Anna not very excited as she is learning Turkish and the university and speaks in very well, at least in my opinion. It was so fun to hear them switch for language to language, when talking to each other and it their customers. Turkish culture, as had a large influence on the local peoples of the Caucasus because of the trade, wars and movement of peoples within this region over the last five-hundred years. They served a lot of Turkish dishes at the restaurant as well and Anna and I had both had an order of Turkish monti, smaller versions of the Caucasian monti, served either with red or black pepper. It was very good, but I think I prefer the Caucasian monti, in that they’re more moist and the meat within them tastes better that way. It is nice to see that not all enclaves of Turkish culture within Russian have been targeted by the media or by the police. With the political situation the way it is, I doubt that any progress in relations between the two countries will improve, so it is up to the Russians who have Turkish links, or heritage to continue cultural exchanges.

We were so full from our lunch. Kabardian cuisine is hardy and I can’t image that I’ve eaten at Elberd’s home, all the food that was given me, because as I get older, it is becoming more difficult. Anna and I decided to take another walk to work off all the food we had consumed, a very smart decision on our part. We were in Nalchik for the specific goal of ordering me a pair of boots and pants to complete my cherkesska. Nalchik is one of the few cities that have master craftsmen who specialize in these types f boots, so it was very important that we did this during our last visit. After much searching and getting advice from a local taxi driver, we arrived an apartment building that had been converted into a cherkesska making workshop. Different floors by different assignments involved the making of the national regalia. I was looking for a pair of black boots that were about knee length in height. It was different to find a pair of boots, without getting a custom fitting, as my feet fit into several pairs, but my calf-muscles are to big, the physic of many Caucasian men, being that of “stick legs.” So, not only I get my feet measured, but I also got my calfs measured, an interesting experience to be sure. I got my fitting down, the whole deal only costing 2,000 rubles. I was told that the boots should be ready in a week, so I’ll wait on a call from the cobblers and return to Nalchik to pick them up. I also got my pants, black in color, noting to ridiculous and a head scarf, a piece of the regalia worn when dancing lezginka, specifically in dances that feature sword fights. I’m so looking forward to having the whole of the cherkesska assembled and to take photos.

After returning from Nalchik, classes seemed to fall into place again, the quarantine being lifted and all. In other news, the microwave on our floor was stolen. What possessed someone to go and “jack” and thing is beyond me, be living in Russia for two years as taught to not be as surprised at these things as I would have been, before having my journeys here. So in response, the lock on the door was replaced and we were given a new key, which then preceded to go “walkies.” It has yet to be found. Alex was kind enough to go get copies so hopefully this other one wouldn’t be misplaced. So, we now have no microwave and no washing machine. At least life here is not boring. We have all taken the appropriate steps, putting all cooks items, including pots and pans in our block, so they won’t disappear. Reheating food in a pan, isn’t the end of the world, and living without it is on a way liberating. We’ve had a new student move to our floor. Her name is Alizee and she is from Belgium. She seems very nice from my interactions with her so far. We all had some time together at on of the many pubs we visit and that night was enjoyable, however French and Spanish were the languages of the night, so I was “hosed” as it were. At least there was beer and tasty sandwiches. I learned a lot of South American politics and their love of football from Gabriel, the new student from Ecuador.

We also had an interesting moment with my peers and one of our teachers/faculty sponsors last week. On Thursday, Nina Orlova had us star in a promotional video for the university, featuring foreigners learning Russian. A camera crew came to our faculty and took a lot of photos, and Alina Tkachenko, the women who invited me on her radio show was there, asking us questions about why we studied Russian and the like. It was a staged event, a promotion of the university, but most of us were happy to help our faculty out. They take very good care of us and fight the bureaucracy and red type within the university on our behalf. I can’t give Nina enough credit for all the support and help she gives us, as we like to say, “Nina’s mama.” Later that afternoon, we had lunch with her, the camera crew fellowing us to Neapolitano. Gabriel commented that it was “like we’re in a reality TV show.” Diogo and I learned at the situation. While waiting for our drinks, we decided to play a game of Russian charades and I acting out Vladimir Putin for kicks and giggles, making body-builder poses and frowning faces. We had a good time. I also got to talk to Nina about a few schedule changes I wanted and my concerns about a few classes and we togethers have begin to rearrange my classes.

We also had the “He and She” concert last Friday evening. One of the most popular student events the university, “He and She” is a competition between the various faculties of the university to see who can win the title of “He and She.” The premise is one male and one female student are voted by their peers within their faculty and represent they faculty in the contest. They do this by deciding on a theme for their performance and doing three sections, an opening, and middle performance and an ending, telling a story about love. It was fun to watch the concert this time around, as during my first year, I represented my faculty, singing “I Love You Baby” with Ksenia. It was great to see the various themes that evening, ranging from “George of the Jungle,” to “Bonnie and Clyde,” and the “Joker with Harley Quinn.” The performances were very enjoying to watch, “George of the Jungle”taking first place, fellowed by the “Joker and Harley” getting “the crowd favorite.”

The highlight of the light, was that my old friend Maddy is with us again. I had heard through the rumor mill that she was visiting, but I was pleasantly stocked when she said she was staying until June. It is good to get the old band together again, Alina, Vika, Maddy and I turning Pyatigorsk upside down again. We took a walk around Malshuk and we all caught up on lost time, having dinner at Neapolitano. This new development is going make second semester far more enjoyable then I had originally imagined. Yay of surprises. On the walk get to Alina and Vika’s dorm, we recreated our photo that take their two years ago. It was a wonderful, my mind being flooded with good memories. Such a happy reunion.

Well, friends that’s all here for the moment. I wish you the best and Happy Valentine’s Day to you. I hope you day is filled with love, friendship, fun and laughter. From Russia with love.

Journey to Arkhyz

It’s the February already and we have started this leap year off very well. I know that I must say this in many of my blogs, but seriously, time is flying by so quickly. Before I know it, I’ll be heading for home, the month of June slapping me in the face. It has snowed off and on during these past few days, most of it melting by the end of the day. The high elevation and warmer temperatures are making it difficult for the white powder to stay. Last week, we had a “Narnia-like” atmosphere and now it feels like April, with it being 38 degrees out and muddy roads. Mountain weather is ever changing, and we aren’t even in the mountains, more like the “Front Range” as Taylor calls it. I hope that the snow will remain a little while longer, but if good, old Punxsutawney is to be believed, we are in for an early spring this year.

Things have been very interesting here. The first week of classes was good all in all. However, we haven’t been to classes in last week because we have been in quarantine. The university grounds have been closed to limit the spread of a new swine-influenza that is ravaging Russia. According to the BBC, 38% of the citizens living in Moscow have been infected with the virus and within a matter of weeks, people in Saint Petersburg, Rostov and even within Stavropol had caught the bug. Vika and Alina had told me that the virus had claimed the lives of several people with the Stavropol Krai region. This thing has gotten the Russian authorities in a jam, mandating that all universities within the Russian Federation close, to prevent students from getting ill. This strain of influenza is effecting young adults more so then the elderly or young children. I’ve been limiting my usage of the public transportation and the shops to limit getting ill. So far, I’ve been successful.

To pass the time by Vika, Alina and I have been hanging out, putting in some episodes of “Downton Abbey.” Vika’s boyfriend Tolya, was here for the week/weekend and it has good to see him again. We chatted about history and Russian societal norms, over cups of tea. We also ate a lot of food (all thanks goes to Vika and here wonderful potato with drill soup). Quarantine has made live interesting because all the free time on our hands. Vika had been planning a trip for she and Tolya during last week, time for them to bond after his year long tour in the army. Vika as kind effort to invite Alina and I with them to the ski resort of Arkhyz. The Arkhyz Mountain region is located in the Republic of Karachey-Cherkessia and is famous all over the Russian Federation for it’s natural mineral water in the summer and it’s beautiful, snowy slopes. People from all over the world go snow boarding and skiing in the North Caucasus Mountains, Arkhyz, being on of the most popular. The altitude here exceeds three-thousand feet. In the Karachay language, Arkhyz means “a beautiful girl.”

Vika payed for the trip through a program for Alpinists, based in Pyatigorsk. It the trip was $15 per person and it was a good deal, as it including the marshot ride there and back. The catch was that we had to be up and ready to go by 04:30, meaning we had to get up at 03:30 if we wanted to eat breakfast. I decided to sleep earlier that evening before the trip. I went to bed at 19:00 that evening to catch up on rest. I woke up at 03:30. ate so oatmeal and gotten myself ready for the mountains. Vika, Tolya and I took a taxi to the bus station, Alina soon followed us a little later. We were the first people to wait at the station, so we chatted for a while. I was trying to speak in Russian for most of the day, so I could get in better practice. Starting the day off in only Russian was very difficult, as I hadn’t had any coffee that morning and my “language wires” weren’t working very well. I’ve noticed that there are some days that are better than others when speaking another language, and this was one of those days.

As more people began to show up, I watched Alina, Tolya and Vika’s reactions to them. Many were sportsmen, experienced in snowboarding and other winter sports. I noticed something that I hadn’t had seen before while in Russia. Most of the people, were very open when talking to each other. It was normal for me to see Russians never engage in conservations with strangers, but here these 20-somethings were chatting it up like nobodies business. I was really taken off guard. Don’t get me wrong I was pleased to see this other side of Russians, but in was surprising none the less. I was a little shy that early in the morning, still trying to wake up and get my languages straight. A snowboarder by the name of Sasha, commented on my ushanka, saying that I was “very Russian.” Alina then said that it “was funny because I was American,” and I got a little miffed at her. I don’t like drawing attention to myself, especially in situations in larger groups of people on a little bus. We boarded the marshot, and started our three hour ride there. The sun wasn’t up yet and it was chilly, but I was determined to stay awake in order to see the country side.

I listened to lezginka on the way, as the others on the marshot slept. I also listen to lezginka and other Caucasian tunes during my travels to the mountains, getting myself in the “spirit of things.” The geography on this side of Karachey-Cherkessia was amazing to look at. We were traveling 50 miles west of Dombai, on the Zelenchukskaya Plateau, a region of pink stoned mesas, rolling hills and canyons. As the first rays of light from the sun came rising over the hills, the colors really began to show. The light was a cold light, blue with hints of yellow. The stars still shining in the early morning, glittered like gems in the morning darkness. The darkness slowly receded into a wonderful array of orange, red and yellow light was the sun finally got over the hills. I was enjoying the scenery, when the marshot turned a corner on the road very quickly. I became very concerned, as the driver was going too fast for the road conditions (snow was in icy layers in the road) and the road was looping around the hills like a serpent. At least I was calm in the knowledge that in Georgia, the drivers are far more crazy.

The landscape breaks into a flat plain called Leso Kyafar, before the Arkhyz Range. Many towns are shattered throughout this area, small farming communities and ranchers, with a healthy mix of Alpine tourism (in this case Caucasian tourism). We drove through this region and into the pathways through the mountains. This area reminded me a lot of Silt, Colorado (Taylor’s hometown). The rock faces within the gorges were very sharp and were also similar to the canyons of Kabardino-Balkaria and North Ossetia. On the way to Arkhyz, we stopped at a very small mountain village. This place had maybe thirty people living in it maximum and it reminded me for one of the old pioneer outposts of the 1820’s. The buildings were log cabins, large stacks of firewood in the corners. The main cabin was a lodge filled with chairs and benches of all shapes. A cast-iron stove from at least the last century was in the back of the lodge, with a bolted smoke stack raised into the ceiling. The back room had three Karachey women cooking a baking a variety of foods. The older of the three women was in charge, telling the others what to do. She would take some of the orders and their tell the younger girl what to do. It was like the other women were apprenticing under her.

I ordered a khichiney (one of the national dishes of the Karachey ethnicity, you may remember this food from my blog about Dombai) with cheese for a second breakfast as I was very hunger after our three hour journey. It was a great experience to eat this variety of the pie, because it was less of a pie and more like a pastry, stuffed with “chevre-like” cheese. I really like this type of khichiney and it was interesting to see how different the pie can be by region and household. The rest was good and the food was very filled, as is most Caucasian cuisine. There was no running water in this village so people had to get their water from the river and the toilet was a triangular hole in the ground. A mix of soap and snow was used to wash one’s hands. We got back on the marshot and drove another 30 minutes to the resort. The Arkhyz Range was beautiful, white capped mountains touched the crystal clear sky, rising like sentinels. The snow was in some places 4 to 5 feet deep and it was a huge difference from the snow fall in Pyatigorsk. The parking lot of the resort was an icy mess and it was good to get off of the road and away from that crazy driver.

Arkhyz is a “European-style” ski resort and is one of the most prized in the Caucasus because of its location in western Karachey-Cherkessia, it’s yearly snow fall and its slopes for skiing and snow boarding. Vika and Tolya were set on snow boarding and get their equipment in Pyatigorsk before we left. Alina and I didn’t go skiing or boarding as it was last minute for Alina and I wanted my first time skiing or snow boarding to be with Taylor, so Alina and I walked around the resort and talked for most of the day. It was good because Alina and I got some time to talk individually and Vika and Tolya got to do the same, Alina and I in the process not being third or fourth wheels. We split up, Vika and Tolya going up to the green colored ski run, while Alina and I spoke with Sasha for a while. I was very good practice in Russian, but my brain started to cave in during the afternoon. Alina and I played “I spy,” Alina asking the questions in English, and I asked the questions in Russian. Alina and I then took the cable car up to the top of Mount Arkhyz. On top of the mountain, the view was beautiful, breath taking in fact. I could see for miles across the Range, all of the mountains having their own unique shapes and peaks. We took many photos on the summit and shared a drink together. I really enjoyed having a Paulaner at 3,318 meters. I wonderful moment on top of the world. It was so beautiful up there.

Vika then called Alina and summoned us to the base of the mountain, so we could exchange our ski passes, as they wanted another go on the slopes. We met them by a cafe, chatted a little, I shared some apples that I brought with me and we split up again. Vika and Tolya were enjoying snow boarding down the slopes, Vika teaching Tolya, being his first time on a snow board. Alina and I headed over to a cafe that we had visited earlier. It was a small stand in a local market at the base, near the main resort structure. Karachey women were selling food, drink, and various souvenirs. One women specifically, was baking khichiney and brewing homemade mulled wine. We came back to this women because the mulled wine she made was so good and she was very kind. We had a sample of her wine earlier, a boiled, red wine with and cinnamon and cardamon. We got our wine and our khichiney, sitting down by a table close to the woman’s stand. The khichiney this time around was very good as well, a little different from the one I had had several hours earlier. The pastry dough was thicker and the cheese was shredded. There was also homemade sour cream with the dish, that made it up, as my saying goes, “everything is better with smetana.” Alina and I talked together for most of the afternoon, it was good to see her relaxed and more like herself, blowing off steam with a friend. What are friends for?

We met up once more to prepare for leaving at the end of the day. The light of the sun was fading over the peaks of the Arkhyz Range, summoning us to return to the marshot. The bus was loaded with everyone’s equipment and bodies slowly started to pack inside. It was a wonderful day and experience and I’m so thankful to Vika for inviting me and planning the trip. It was good to be heading back to Pyatigorsk though, as I was tired and it was getting cold after the sun had set. We stopped at that little village again to eat and freshen up, so I got another khichiney with potatoes and lagman soup. Three khichiney in one day, a success in of itself I think. We returned at around 21:30 and I was happy to have a nice, hot shower and went to bed early that day. The next day Vika, Alina and I went over to Amber’s apartment and met with Brandi and her husband Austin. Brandi and I studied together two years ago, Vika, Alina, Brandi and I hanging out most of the time. It was good to catch up with her.

Well, that is all that is going on here. Anna and I have dance lessons this evening, so it will be nice to had something to do in the evenings, especially since the quarantine was in acted. From Russia with regards everyone.